Cpt.Caveman Posted January 5, 2003 Share Posted January 5, 2003 I have climbed some rime ice and some water ice and some mixed routes within the last 2 months. Some talk about tools with the pinky rest and many mention it's not a good "tool" because it is not capable of letting someone dig the shaft into the snow or ice. Of coursse in bomber ice it will not. However on many alpine climbs I am able to piolet or do that shit with my "pinky fuck thing tools" Grivel light machines. I dont think I have yet found a reason to buy a second set of tools or to think that my tools were inferior. I only climb moderate shit in the cascades. What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted January 6, 2003 Share Posted January 6, 2003 It depends on the angle of the shaft, how far the pinky rest thing sticks out, and how hard the snow is. Most shafts now are bent and that may help in pulling it back out. It might take a little getting used to getting it in harder snow, depending on the tool. There may be a problem getting it caught on things like brush and rocks in light snow on steep approaches. I'm thinking about buying some good tools soon, so I like this discussion. I don't like the way a lot of the new tools swing. I used BD Prophets once, back in the day, I liked those, but I don't think they still make them. And those pinky rests/protectors seem awkward. I'm young, but I'm pretty old school. I do light alpine ice when it becomes an impass, not for entertainment, but it is entertaining none the less . Right now I use a alpine axe(wrap leash around adze to shorten it) and a Grivel Third tool (w/hammer). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 I used Quarks on Cheam and they worked fine and were lighter than Pulsars thus letting me move faster and saving god knows how many calories Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_Hutchinson Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 When I bought BD vipers this year, I was also concerned about how the pommel (AKA "pinky fuck thing") would do on alpine routes and almost ground it off before using. Now I think it has no negatives, makes for a more comfortable grip, and has two unforeseen advantages: 1) on just the right crust, functions as mini ski pole like basket and may prevent plunging on easy, low angle terrain; and 2) makes it harder to get the tool out of my pack's holsters, which can be annoying, but means I don't worry about clipping off the leashes so the tool won't slip out. I realize both these "advantages" may seem pretty silly but pommels are basically fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 I've quickly grown to appreciate the 'tink' sound it makes when it hits the ice: It means my pinky was just saved from a mashing. I think I'll still use the old Super Courmayers on moderate alpine routes, though. -Loren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_Hutchinson Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 I have had a change of heart and now am considering cutting/grinding off the pinky pommel thing on my Vipers so they plunge easily. Anyone done this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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