Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Dandelion

2 jumars with grigri backup

Recommended Posts

I have found lots of info on jugging with two ascenders and jugging with one ascender and one grigri. However, I can't seem to find any video demos or illustrations on how to use two ascenders/jumars with a grigri backup. It is just simply mentioned in some articles with little detail. This is the system I am more interested in using and I'd like some further info on the setup.

 

Links and/or explanations appreciated :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure you'll get better responses from those more experienced, but I think the issue you'll run into is you'll have to be continuously pulling slack through the grigri, unless you modify it. ( like this )

 

backing up jumars with something like a mini traxion might be an easier system to use...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm sure you'll get better responses from those more experienced, but I think the issue you'll run into is you'll have to be continuously pulling slack through the grigri

Still easier than tying back up knots.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

+1 for mini traxion. Backing up with a grig would be wicked slow. Check out Dosage IV, Look at the system Beth Rodden is rocking when she runs up behind TC. I doubt there's a more safe and efficient way than that yet...

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

+1 for the single or double jumar with mini-traxion. Adding a backup knot ever so often isn't a big deal either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

+2 for microtraxion over minitraxion

+3 for microcender if passing gear on fixed lines

+4 for not jugging and sleeping in

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The main issue you will find while jugging with a grigri back up is that the lower ascender will tend to have issues sliding up the rope, this is because there is little or no rope weight pulling down allowing for a taut rope that easily allows the cam of the ascender to un-engage during that upward slide. The solution to this is learning to pull the cam trigger to manual un-engage the ascender cam for each upward stroke. The benefits of jugging with a grigri as a backup over any other device is that you are already set up to perform tasks during clean such as a lower out aka ducey or if you needed to repel down to help assist with a stuck haul bag or such.

 

Using a grigri in the jugging system is also paramount while rejugging to the high point after taking a leader fall. In this case the grigri is only used with one ascender and your weight is always loaded on the grigri rather than the ascender. Why would you want this? So if/when the high point gear that caught your fall blows while ascending you don’t take a fall onto the toothed cam of your jugs… leading to the chop.

 

This is big wall/ aid crap, not sure if that’s what your looking for.

 

I could continue to elaborate why the grigri is the tool of choice in these situations if you all wish.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gri gri backup with two ascenders works great. Like the previous post states, your system is already set up for lowering out while cleaning. Besides, the gri gri will serve two purposes on the wall, belaying and jugging, increasing your efficiency on the climb.

 

Finally, if the rope you are jugging is running fairly plum with the anchor, there will eventually be enough rope weight below you so that the rope will indeed automatically feed through your gri gri as you ascend, saving you lots of time on the jug.

 

And like DPS said, manually feeding the gri gri at the start is so much quicker and easier than tying and untying backup knots the whole way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×