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[TR] Mt Washington - North Ridge 4/20/2014

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Trip: Mt Washington - North Ridge


Date: 4/20/2014


Trip Report:

Not a lot of info on this climb so here is a quick summary. Forrest and I climbed Mount Washington on Sunday. We left PDX at 5:00 am. Drove all the way to the youth camp on Big Lake. Last section is fairly rough not sure low clearance vehicles can make it. Started skinning at 8:30, took the trail from the youth camp which joins the PCT.20140420_083528.jpg

Followed PCT for a 1.5 miles the peeled off for some easy bushwacking. Key here is to head for the clearing on the west slopes to avoid melted out tree wells.


10:00 am at base of the steep western slope. Snow was hard, we boot packed it to the ridge, stashed our skis.


At 11:30 we were climbing. First pitch was has some spicy sections but super fun. 20140420_145939.jpg

We simulclimbed the rest of the climb. Steep frim snow and ice.



Summit shots:




We topped out at 1:00 pm. Did 2 rappels(and a bit of down climbing) to get off the pinnacle. Skied some hideous mash potato bullshit down to the meadows, transitioned to skins and back to car. Beer at car. Back in PDX at 8:00 pm.


Super fun climb, go get it while its still rimed up.



We should have started earlier, climbing would have been much better. Sun exposed parts of the pinnacle we softening up.


Gear Notes:

3 pickets, 4 screws, dmm alloy offsets and 4 dmm torque nuts, technical tools, crampons, twin 70m cords. Found good ice for screws.


Approach Notes:


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That thing look a lot more fun as a winter/spring climb. I climbed in in July or August of 1996 and I think I still have volcanic dust and pumice lodged in crevices here and there. Plus it was so damn hot we jumped in the lake on the way down to stave off heat stroke.


Neat to see pics of it again- it's been a long time.

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