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Voytek

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Everything posted by Voytek

  1. Found a crampon, yesterday, while descending Mt Adams north ridge.
  2. Has anyone climbed the rock formation just off HWY 14 east of Lyle or have any FA information? Seems like someone might have considered developing it. Email me: wojtek at pagacz dot ca
  3. Hey! Does anyone have any info on ice climbing in the Elkhorn Mountains in Oregon? Apparently there is ice in Pine Creek and Rock Creek. https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105912514/pine-creek Cheers.
  4. Looking to climb some ice this weekend, possibly backcountry ski. Have gear and experience. Willing to drive. Located in Vancouver, Wa. Anyone interested?
  5. I got laid off. Which means I have lots of time to climb/ski. Looking for peeps to climb ice or backcountry ski with. Only issue is I have to stay in Canada... Open to doing local(Vancouver, BC area) trips or going to the Rockies. I have a 4x4 truck and gear. Can lead WI4+ and will ski pretty much anything.
  6. Looking for a 4th person (2 parties of 2) for torment forbidden traverse for this weekend. do approach friday night. Do as much of the traverse as we can on Saturday and finish Sunday. If we have enough time push on to Shark Fin. 3 of us are coming from Canada. Anyone interested?
  7. Hey! Whats going on with the snow on them volcanoes, firm or fluffy? Lots of fresh stuff? Anyone been up in the last 2 days? Any one been on the north side of Adams? Is the road open to Killen Meadows TH? I'm expecting firm snow in the am then slush fest by noon... Happy Friday, get yer slush wax on!
  8. Buckaroo: I don't thinking we placed any nuts or offsets. We had a single rack of cams c-4 and small x-4 .1"-3"used most at one point or another. EDIT:Should have had coffee before answering. No rock was climbed.
  9. Ainsworth Left Sunday morning. Thin and detached but first 3 pitches go.
  10. I'm contemplating doing Adams via Adams Glacier Saturday morning in a single push. It will be a very big day and the key will be to move quickly. Game plan: leave trailhead at 1am, glacier base(steep part) at dawn, summit at 9ish. Bust down the north ridge and back to car. If this is something you are interested in and within your abilities give me a shout. Weather is unstable right now. One forecast claims gale force winds and sunny while another lower winds but chances of rain. Make the call tomorrow.
  11. final rap is short(first pitch) 40m should do it.
  12. Thinking of doing 9 or 11 o'clock couloir this weekend. Anyone been up there lately or knows if it's too late? Any input would be appreciated. Cheers W
  13. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1123293/TR_Mt_Washington_North_Ridge_4#Post1123293 amazing climb.
  14. Trip: Mt Washington - North Ridge Date: 4/20/2014 Trip Report: Not a lot of info on this climb so here is a quick summary. Forrest and I climbed Mount Washington on Sunday. We left PDX at 5:00 am. Drove all the way to the youth camp on Big Lake. Last section is fairly rough not sure low clearance vehicles can make it. Started skinning at 8:30, took the trail from the youth camp which joins the PCT. Followed PCT for a 1.5 miles the peeled off for some easy bushwacking. Key here is to head for the clearing on the west slopes to avoid melted out tree wells. 10:00 am at base of the steep western slope. Snow was hard, we boot packed it to the ridge, stashed our skis. At 11:30 we were climbing. First pitch was has some spicy sections but super fun. We simulclimbed the rest of the climb. Steep frim snow and ice. Summit shots: We topped out at 1:00 pm. Did 2 rappels(and a bit of down climbing) to get off the pinnacle. Skied some hideous mash potato bullshit down to the meadows, transitioned to skins and back to car. Beer at car. Back in PDX at 8:00 pm. Super fun climb, go get it while its still rimed up. Notes: We should have started earlier, climbing would have been much better. Sun exposed parts of the pinnacle we softening up. Gear Notes: 3 pickets, 4 screws, dmm alloy offsets and 4 dmm torque nuts, technical tools, crampons, twin 70m cords. Found good ice for screws. Approach Notes: http://www.hillmap.com/m/ag1zfmhpbGxtYXAtaGRychULEghTYXZlZE1hcBiAgICAq724CQw
  15. From web cams(visibility will clear on friday): http://www.santiampassskipatrol.org/wx/weather2b.jpg http://www.blackbutteranch.com/about-us/webcam I'm expecting conditions similar to 2 month ago but with less snow and more ice: Don't know about Thielsen but I'm expecting a winter style ascent of Washington. I'm hoping the rime ice is more consolidated instead of crumbly cauliflower bullshit.
  16. Hey! Has anyone been on Mt Washington lately? What is the rime ice like? Is NF2690 open to cars yet? Thinking about doing it this sunday via the north ridge, anyone want to come play? Thanks.
  17. Has anyone been up to the Alpine Lakes lately? How much snow is up there? Weather is looking warm enough for some alpine rock climbing(Dragontail/Stuart). Wondering if the rock is snow free. Cheers
  18. I want to come play. PM is being sent.
  19. Anyone know if the north face is still in and does anyone want to have a go on Saturday? Voytek
  20. Looking to do prusik peak either west ridge or south face or both. Hike in Friday night climb Saturday and Sunday. Leaving from PDX Friday at noon. Voytek
  21. Too warm for ice so lets climb some rocks or do some spring skiing. I climb 5.10d sport and 5.10a trad. Any one interested? Im in the portland area.
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