Mexico volcanoes, need some beta

[pete_a]

I'm heading down to Mexico in January to climb Ixta and Orizaba with some friends. I'm not really searching for beta on the climbs more than I'm looking to get info from folks who will be heading there sometime earlier this coming winter or were there last year and can fill me in on the current crime level there, safe travelling lessons you may have learned, good places to stay near the volcanoes, etc. Thanks. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

[AJ]

I know a guy who went down last winter. He flew into Mexico City (not sure which airport), rented a car and was promptly held up by police when he left the airport. He bribed them $100 and took off. After that he didn't report any problems. He said he would recommend flying into a smaller airport since the bribe situation is worse in the big cities. Good luck.

[Rodchester]

In any third world country do your best to look like a dirt bag climber. They know you don't have money.

In Mexico and South America petty theft is te main problem. Violent crime is much lower than the states or even Canada. Always travel with at least two of you if you can. Safety in numbers. Watch your wallet, pick-pockets. Watch you rucksack from slashers.

Overall it is quite safe and fun.

Know the dollar/peso amounts and how top barter or you will be taken advantage of, ehat we call "white mans' tax."

[Rodchester]

take a bus out of Mexico city and sleep.

[Terminal_Gravity]

Hey Pete A,

I climbed Orizaba last year. I flew into MEX City and took busses to Tlachichuca (sp?). It was cheap and fairly quick. I recommend it and can give you more specific info it you want. I also recommend not using the Reyes fucks. They are competant but don't support the local scene, charge over twice as much and discourage individule non standard attepmts or itenararies. I think that Secor did the climbing community a diservice by not mentioning other climbing support services. If you want I could try to look up an old web posting by some Colorado climbers that had a horrible experience with the Reyes.

Hotel Gerrar is the alternate full service outfit. Their only down side is lack of english. However, I had a very good experience with a small company that helped us register for the climb and drive us to a very remote non-standard trail head. I would have to look up the info if you want it.

That being said, I feel very strongly that if you are the least bit comfortable with your climbing/route finding ability DON'T climb the standard route. Go to the SW side of the mountain. The Ruta Juvenitude is only marginally more technical then the standard. The serpents head direct (AI2+ WI3- 75deg 25ft) was in spetacular shape last year. And there was a plethora of easy to hard ice sub routes and gullies to choose from. (if any one wants to go there with me in 2002 to do this 400-500' dead vertical water fall, let me know). I may be able to send you photos.

As far as theft or police hassels we had exactly none. The major precaution that we took besides common sense and awareness was to lock our heavy gear bags together once on the busses so that they would be impossible to move quickly by a theif. By and large we found the people to be honest, fair and helpful. One hint, don't take a taxi from the mexico city airport - garaunteed rip off.

[This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 09-25-2001).]

[pete_a]

Thanks for everyone for the responses, as this is my first climbing trip in a foreign country I have a ton of questions. I have read the Secor book and I its great to hear about other peoples opinions of the Reyes outfit down there at Orizaba.

Terminal Gravity- If you wouldn't mind emailing me some info on alternatives to hiring the Reyes for the car shuttle up to the huts on Orizaba.

Also, how to you get your maps for Orizaba, from the map shops I've visited in Seattle, it sounds darn near impossible to get the maps ahead of time in the US.

As of now, the four of us are planning on renting a car at the airport and getting to the towns near Ixta and Orizaba that way. Maybe I'll have to take a look at bussing it instead of driving.

peter_alderson@hotmail.com

[This message has been edited by pete a (edited 09-25-2001).]

[TimL]

 

[This message has been edited by TimL (edited 09-25-2001).]

[This message has been edited by TimL (edited 09-25-2001).]

[dkemp]

We flew to Mex City, then right on to Veracruz. Approached via bus to Coscomatepec, a beautiful little city. At the local hardware store we obtained a ride to the mountain in the back of a vegetable truck to Senor Gueterez camp at 10,000ft, then hiked 4 miles up to the hut through pine forest on a trail.

Havent done the other approach, from the west, but would recommend approach from the east. Gotta admit, we didnt summit 'cause we spent more time on the approach than we budgeted time for. There are obstacles in this approach, for instance no-one, and I mean no-one speaks English on that side. But we considered it all part of the fun, and my poor Spanish improved considerably.

no crime whatsoever. felt safe the entire time and nobody tried to rip us off.

Obviously I have unfinished business there. When I go back I will go in from the west but go out to the east, down to 'Cosco' and out to Veracruz. In this way we'll get the best of both and do a sort of 'approach-traverse'.

Our website is down now but tomorrow I will send a link to an article we keep there.

-dox

 

 

[Terminal_Gravity]

TL

What gave you the impression that I had a crappy time. O' Contrare... I had a great time and had a lot of good experiences both on and off the mountain. I plan to go back. My attitude is and has always been to get to know the locals, which I did...

There is a local climbing club that tries to support climbing and raises money to maintain the infrastructure and rescue services. The Reyes refuses to participate. I have heard that they refuse to help with rescues unless it is their own cleints or cash is paid upfront. It was the locals frustration of how the Reyes uses what seemed to me to be almost draconian measures to maintain their monopoly that has led me to make my opionins. One example is that they do indeed have a monopoly on auto gas and won't sell to the other jeep services.

Don't tell me that I have a bad attitude, you don't know shit. Maybe you should open you own eyes to what's happening locally around you next time you climb in a foriegn country and not just stay under the wing of biggest guide service. I think that it is our duty as climbers to help the local economy and climbing clubs when we are abroad and not just line the pockets of the richest guides.

Except for the cold shoulder that I got from the Reyes when they found out that I wasn't using their monopoly and was just trying to hook with some other climbers that I met on the plaza, I had no direct bad experiences. Many climbers I have talked to say nothing but good things about the Reyes; but I think that is only because they were too myopic to see the real situation.

 

[payaso]

Enjoy yourself down there! I never got the chance to climb down there but I have had lots of experience driving around the Mexico City area. The first time I drove through that city I was truly left with an adrenaline rush comparable to that of climbing. The police will always be a factor for you, especially if you have US plates or a rental car from DF. The person who paid $100 for a bribe is an idiot though. Way too much. Here's what you do. When you get pulled over (and you will) politely say you are very sorry for any infraction you may have incurred. Do not get pissed off, remain friendly no matter what. Also do not immediately offer $. They will want to have your drivers llicense. Normal procedure for an infraction in Mexico is to retain the license to ensure that you come down to the station some day to settle up. Since you will not be doing this, make sure to buy an international drivers license from AAA that you can leave with them. Also try giving them photocopies of the license. This has worked for me in the past even though they're not usually happy about it. Unlike a police encounter in America, you can completely take control of the situation in your favor down there. Eventually say you are once again very sorry and ask if you can possibly pay the fine right now. Try offering a small amount of money, no more than $10 US. After you agree on a price, act confused and lost (which you will be) and ask if he can show you out of the city in the direction you're going. I did this once and found it to be well worth the ten bucks to find my way out of that place.

If you don't speak any spanish, just skip right ahead to the confused and lost bit and speak gibberish to the cop. Try a spoken word version of "Mary had a little lamb" or something like that over and over. They will eventually just get frustrated and let you go. Also have a copy of the bible highly visible by the dashboard. Whatever you do, don't give them your license, just give them a copy, or better yet the AAA disposable one. Good luck! I'm kicking myself for never getting around to going up Popo before it became active. Also the little town of Cholula would be a real nice place to base yourself.

 

[Terminal_Gravity]

One other piece of beta for the mexico thing.

If you want to be a tourist and gain some weight after the climb I highly recommend the city of Oaxaca and the empty beaches south. In Oaxaca they have these crazy mostly leagal mushroom parlors and you can eat these great tasting (I shit you not) saute'ed grasshoppers. They were sooo... good with guacomole on a tortilla and so good for you too.

[ocom]

The Reyes were involved in 3 rescues when I was there in january. In fact, they helped pull a dead austrian off who was not their client, and were very kind to the dead mans brother. They appeared to be very helpful with the Socorro Alpino, who responded in droves to the scene.

the price was $10 per night w/break and lunch.

Francisco was running the show for Reyes, and was very helpful, flexible and cool. We were a private party of two and would go back again w/ the reyes.

 

there was zero crime and tlachichuca was a great place to relax.

 

[ocom]

hey pete a

email me at ocom2001@yahoo. com and I can scan the parts of the map you need.

I got the map online from "omni resources" on the internet.

www.omnimap.com

 

[Terminal_Gravity]

That's heartening info to hear, ocom. Thanks, good post.

[Terminal_Gravity]

Hey Payaso, Great cop beta. I especially liked the show me out of town bit. I had a friend get stopped twice on his way out. The guided tour by a cop is probably the best way to avoid the second stop. He latter thought he was an idiot for paying $20 both times. HaHa

[Rodchester]

If you are doing the standard route don't bother with a rope.

Also regarding TG's advice on Reyes...he is not the only one to have this opinion. In fact MANY people agree that Reyes doe NOT support the locval community. I used some local guy who was REALLY cheap, REALLY cool, and I slept in his barn on straw. It was cool.

Always aclimatize as was mentioned by others here. Also if this is your first time at that kind of altitude, you may want to stick to the standard route.

learn to barter to prevent yourself from being riped off...look like a dirt bag.

[daler]

I have stayed with the reyes family four times and have only had good times and I have experienced several accounts of them helping other folks that were left high and dry. I think all of the companies that work the area are good but something can be said for having a camp guard and the pickup truck always being on time. Francisco might even take you to his secret rock climbing area.

Also don't forget to go to the pyramid of the sun, and the museum of anthropology is a must see.

adios,

dale remsberg

[Rodchester]

You really don't ned any maps of the mountain. It is very straight forward.

[klenke]

In case you want maps after all (never let someone else tell you you don't need them), Map Link, Inc. worked two years ago. I assume they're still in business.

Number: 1 800 962 1394

I think they're located out of Texas.

Maps are 1:50,000 scale. Can order color or B&W depending on availability. Availability might be low--especially for volcano related ones--as they are sent from the Mexican government.

Also, if you request it, they can probably fax you an index of all their topographic maps of Mexico. It's about 11 pages with about 100 map references per page. So, as you can see, there are a lot of maps. But then, Mexico is a big country.

 

Maps needed for certain peaks (depending on where you're going):

ORIZABA

Coscomatepec MEX50 E14 B46 (SW corner)

Salvador El Seco MEX50 E14 B45 (Tlachichuca locale)

Cuidad Serdan MEX50 E14 B55 (south approaches)

Orizaba MEX50 E14 B56 (south approaches)

LA MALINCHE

Tlaxcala MEX50 E14 B33 (NW of mtn)

Puebla MEX50 E14 B43 (SW of mtn; mtn is on this map)

IXTACCIHUATL

Huejotzingo MEX50 E14 B42 (mtn is on this map)

 

Back then, the cost was $10 each plus shipping and handling ($7.50?). Maps arrived in less than a week, but you'll want to leave yourself some extra time in case of mistakes (as in them sending the wrong map(s)).

----Paul