Dt1 Posted March 4, 2014 Posted March 4, 2014 Where a person intends to hike up the backside to put in &remove anchors and is doing laps solo with a doubled top rope, is there any reason why it wouldn't be a good idea to tie a knot on each side of the mid-point of your rope--maybe two figures of eight on bights--and clip the bights into your anchor instead of simply threading the rope through the anchor? Seems like having something like a microtraxion on the side of the rope you're using as the primary rope backed up with another on what you're using as your secondary rope would be no help at all if either side/half of your rope failed. Again, talking only of sits where you hike up to the anchors--no chance you will need to pull ropes from below. Thanks. Quote
dberdinka Posted March 5, 2014 Posted March 5, 2014 You should definitely tie your rope off at the anchor!! A single figure 8 is entirely adequate! Top rope soloing is not at all similar to regular top roping other than the fact you are not leading. Your option of threading the rope is both dangerous and nonsensical. Sorry to be harsh. I would recommend finding an experienced climber to demonstrate top rope soloing. Quote
Dt1 Posted March 5, 2014 Author Posted March 5, 2014 Thanks, dberdinka, I sure appreciate your advice and will positively go out with an experienced climber when I do go out. Right now I'm getting excited about trying the sport and anxious for spring, and doing too much thinking about things I don't know enough about to even know how to begin thinking about them! Quote
sdizzle25 Posted March 6, 2014 Posted March 6, 2014 (edited) +1 tie the rope off at the anchor and back it up with another knot, then solo on the now fixed line, weighted at the bottom. Then you can use gri gri/ ascender that $200 soloist thing or whatever you feel comfortable with. But yeah if that makes no sense get someone to show you, broken ankles or worse are expensive! Edited March 6, 2014 by sdizzle25 Quote
genepires Posted March 7, 2014 Posted March 7, 2014 tie middle of rope into anchor. one strand coming down you attach some kind of ascender or other device to grab the rope if you fall. some devices may need a chest harness to keep it upright and flowing smoothly. other devices flow up well without. you may need to experiment to figure out how to make it flow well. other strand tie fig 8 knots that you can clip into the harness as you go up in case the mechanical device fails. maybe every 20feet or however much you need to feel comfortable. Quote
Jcweinsx Posted March 7, 2014 Posted March 7, 2014 Tie 2 knots at middle. Takes almost no extra time, is not complicated, only extra gear is another locking biner, and you get a redundant system. I'm not a fan of single point failures. Would you rap off only 1 ring when there's a 2nd ring in the anchor? Quote
Jcweinsx Posted March 7, 2014 Posted March 7, 2014 Here's some more info http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/product-experience/self-belay-solo-climbing/introduction-us Quote
Tyson.g Posted March 8, 2014 Posted March 8, 2014 Here's some more info http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/product-experience/self-belay-solo-climbing/introduction-us I am a huge fan of the information Petzl puts out there. A great resource. Most useful equipment catalogues out there. Thanks for posting this up. Quote
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