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Jcweinsx

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About Jcweinsx

  • Rank
    n00b
  • Birthday 05/21/1974

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  • Location
    Portland
  1. question AT Ski Width Recommendation?

    90-95mm width for general purpose. Flat tails. If you need more ski width then its really deep and at your weight you'll want a real powder ski. If you like powder, want to tour, and want to ski corn anything other than multiple skis in your quiver is a crappy compromise.
  2. Cramps

    I use a product called calm made by natural vitality. It's sold at most GNC / vitamin Shoppe type places. It's magnesium. Make sure you plan ahead when you use it as it tends to activate the bowels. Works well for me, another climber told me about it.
  3. Layers for Summer

    Arcteryx Atom LT Hoody 12.7oz/360g. Atom LT has less insulation 60g Coreloft vs the micropuff with 100g primaloft. If you want more insulation there is also Atom AR hoody 470g/16.6oz. I have the Atom LT it is rad, light weight, packs small but still warm and the polartec stretch side panels breathe nicely. I go for synthetic unless I know it will be dry or temps will stay below freezing.
  4. Cord-o-lette/quad anchors

    I love quads use em all the time on routes with bolted anchors. 6mm cord is plenty with 4 strands in there, clip 3 and you are good to go. Plenty of space to put partners in direct, clip gear and backpacks. I use an autolocker for masterpoint or clipping belay device in guide mode. Another advantage of quad is you plenty of cord you can cut up if you have to bail or fix old slings on rap. If bolts are good, climbing is easy, rockfall not common I still use sliding x ocassionally. You can make sliding x redundant with limiter knots, but knots weaken the system.
  5. Dynafit binding failures

    I broke a top plate and had a toe piece with a defective wing. Salewa NA sent me replacements. I'd buy radicals again. I'm prob not the normal user profile - 200 lbs and I have a gift for breaking almost anything without trying. I even broke the heel riser mechanism on a pair of dukes. Most of my binding issues occurred skinning in shitty snow conditions with rocks. My gear lasts a lot longer now that I gave up on turns all year.
  6. New, extended Enchantment Area permit season

    The National Forest Service seems to enjoy disregarding their stakeholders. If you are as mad as I am about the change please take the time to let our civil service managers know how you feel. Susan Peterson is the PA person for this zone. Mike Williams is Forest Supervisor for the national unit. Jeff Rivera is the District Ranger Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest Wenatchee River Ranger District, 600 Sherbourne, Leavenworth, WA 98826. I would like to see the early lottery permit numbers reduced, more unreserved walk-in permits, and a second tier of lottery permits available 14 days out.
  7. Immediate Rescue Help

    My co-worker is really good friends with Adam. I saw Adam play keyboards and drums at an awesome show about a month ago in Portland. Chelan County Sheriff has some info posted on the search. http://www.co.chelan.wa.us/sheriff/news/15c13860-search-for-missing-climber-colchuck-peak Here is text: 15C13860 Search For Missing Climber - Colchuck Peak Posted By: Sheriff's Office on December 01, 2015 The Chelan County Sheriff’s Office initiated an active search for an overdue climber in the area of Colchuck Peak Monday morning. The climber, Adam Ochshorn (33yoa) of Portland, Oregon had planned on hiking to the Colchuck Lake area on Friday, camping overnight and then climbing a couloir route to reach Colchuck Peak on Saturday. He was expected out by late Saturday evening or early Sunday morning. Ochshorn’s vehicle was located near the Bridge Creek campground. He is described as an experienced and technical climber who had hiked in the Colchuck area this past summer. Search coordinators and Chelan County Mountain Rescue personnel worked together throughout Monday in an attempt to locate Ochshorn. One team of Mountain Rescue members had hiked into Colchuck Lake on Sunday evening. Deputies and other Mountain Rescue members joined in the search Monday morning. Ochshorn’s tent was eventually located along the west bank of Colchuck Lake unoccupied. Searchers are focusing on a north couloir route which Ochshorn mentioned to friends would be his ascending route to the Colchuck Peak summit. Due to a weather inversion layer of low clouds in Chelan County, a helicopter from the Snohomish County Sheriff’s Office was requested to conduct an aerial search Monday. (The elevation of the search area is above the inversion layer). Searchers had clear skies throughout Monday’s operational period but have yet to locate Ochshorn. The search will continue Tuesday morning. Please direct questions concerning this media release to Under Sheriff John Wisemore.
  8. Beacon

    I ran it as a single pitch from snag ledge, clipped bolts, then my gear and the fun up to a to gear anchor on ledge. So my ff would be different (but I weigh 195). Rope drag was pretty bad this way. Its just not a good place to fall. I got a #8 bd nut 4" above the x4. I don't think more fixed gear will change the risk of that section unless you want to destroy it with a bolt ladder. So don't fall...
  9. Beacon

    In was at the baconwand on sun. The rock fall at the bottom of young warriors had no occurred before 11:30 when I walked to the corner. Did not hear any major rockfall. Did right gull on Monday 10/12. lower pin is still missing but a red x4 works just as good so no need to replace the missing pin. Top pin - now the only pin on the route is still there.
  10. Erik - that photo was perfect, I used it for planning the climb and on the route. Paired your pic with the CAG topo that shows which side of the ridge to be on at the 2 horns and it went well. Thanks for sharing the photo.
  11. I'll do an edit to clarify the raps. We went down north side for 1.75 raps, then traversed west, then rapped 3x down northside. It wasn't too bad. Our first time on Prusik so definitely think it would be no problem for those familiar with the route. There were several tat stations that we saw while climbing up west ridge, before the ridge/friction pitch. The friction pitch was definitely interesting. I'd like to find something similar but longer to see how I handle it.
  12. Trip: Prusik Peak - West Ridge 5.8 OW finish Date: 5/16/2015 Trip Report: Prusik Peak West Ridge 5.8 OW finish. Long approach. Great scenery. Decent Climbing. Bruce and I left snow creek TH at 6:00. 3-4 ticks collected. 6 hrs to Lake Viv with overnight gear. snow about halfway between snow lake and lake Viv. Went up to South Face route starts to check em out for Sunday. This took more time due to scrambling talus and boulders. A rising traverse on snow to Prusik Pass would be faster than the rock scramble. Once on route pitches were shorter than desired due to rope drag. Snow on ledges but not a problem. For final pitch we did 5.8 OW which had water, snow, and ice in the first part of crack. Not a show stopper but added some spice. Raps were funky, I think some stations may have been covered in snow. Summit bolt is about 15' east of OW finish and is backed up with tat. Partial rap off summit bolt down North side then full rap on single 60m passing a station at ~10m. Traverse back climbers right (West) on short but steep snow section back to the au cheval section before the friction pitch. Two full raps down North side using existing stations, made a 3rd station, then steep snow traverse right for 100m to get back to the 3rd class scramble to the balanced rock. Much quicker return to camp. weather on Sunday was low clouds and misty so we packed up and headed home. A long hike, beautiful scenery, and fun climbing on good rock. Unfortunately the mountain goats did not make an appearance. Prusik - just before sunset. First pic In the TR but one of the last pics we took after finishing the route and retuning to camp at Lake Viv. Starting the route. low 5th Class The ridge before the friction pitch The friction pitch. Clip the manky old pin if you want. Just hope you don't need it. Not too difficult about 2 body lengths of 5.7 friction Lake Vivianne from the summit Gear Notes: Single rack to #3. You could get by w/o the #3 esp for the standard route. OW has narrows to .75 just before the crux bulge. Single 60m rope. Approach Notes: Snow creek trail, long hike 10 mi to Lake Vivianne. On snow from about halfway between upper snow lake and lake Vivianne. Brought crampons and axe, left em at the lake. Did not need em.
  13. recommended alpine approach shoes

    I wore a new pair of 5.10 guide leather tennies for the approach and half the climb on NR Stuart route. The shoes climbed nice but are not durable esp the fabric cuff around the ankle. The toe rand separated a bit. There is a soft foam on the side at mid foot that gets torn up by cracks. I would also prefer a little more support in arch for long approach with packs. If you do std south approach there will be some snow in cascadian coulior. I'd look for something with a GTX or eVent waterproof liner. I got a pair of Salewa wildfire GTX on close out. Outdoorgearlab gave em a pretty good review. Much sturdier shoe. I have not climbed in em yet only hikes. Bring your rock shoes for gendarme or full route on Stuart.
  14. Solo TR Setups?

    If you use sling/elastic or whatever to keep the traxion Oriented corectly the falls are short, sometime not even a fall just sit back in the rope and chill. I have not noticed any additional rope wear/damage over 2 year period. I would not recommend this on your skinny ropes. Use a 10.0mm+ or don't work routes you will fall on.
  15. Solo TR Setups?

    I put a fo8 on a bight at the middle of rope, use an autolocker to clip this to anchor Rap down strand 1 with gri gri. As I rap down strand 1, on strand 2 I tie an alpine butterfly at interval of my choice or before crux. When climbing I use a Traxion w/oval locker on the unknotted strand 1 and clip the alpine butterfly knots on strand 2 to belay loop w/autolocker as I go up. I use elastic cord instead of a sling to keep the traxion oriented correctly and up high. Elastic is easier to adjust and if shtf the elastic will break before you hurt yourself. I have only used dynamic ropes for TR solo. No other real method to achieve redundancy that knots on 2nd strand. 2 devices on 1 strand makes it duplicative but not redundant
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