Aztarex/Matrix for up to WI4

[mocco]

So, I'm having a little obsessive freakout and can't decide: have pairs of both Petzl Aztarex and Grivel Matrix (with the funky horns). Like both for different reasons, Aztarex blue ice pick is really nice for ice and a lighter tool, Matrix is comfortingly burly in alpine and climbs ice ok as well. I'm not a hard climber by any means, and I know both are fine for my level. Should only keep one pair, so I'm looking for opinions as to which it should be. Grivel? Petzl? One of each? Give up snow and ice and just ski and sport climb? What do you think?

[genepires]

keep petzl tools. I like their picks better which IMO matter more when other aspects are similar. maybe PM Dane or alpine dave for his opinion.

[Coldfinger]

Jeez Gene!

 

Dead wrong on this. For one thing the Aztar is a pure alpine tool, with a shaft made for plunging, hence the very minimal hand rest and straighter aluminum shaft. Just a guess here but it was designed for minimal weight and is probably a bit light for the good sticks.

 

The biggest import of this aside from the swing and the grip rest is that having swung Quarks without pick weights or hammers, and that sucked, the swing might be a bit light.

 

The matrix pick has a lot of metal in the blade and a minimal hammer, which meant I really enjoyed the balance and punch, it is ALMOST as sweet as a new model Quark with weights and no hammers.

 

My experience with heavy adzes and hammers has been they can cause more twist than punch on impact.

 

Having swung both the Matrix and Matrix like, I would be fine taking either up a 5.

 

For one either tool was designed for steep ice and has a great grip rest. The narrow shaft diameter makes them both easier to grip and lighter in the shaft. That honking stonking burly pick puts the swing weight squarely on the head. My opinion is either has one of the finest pure ice swings out there. The matrix pick is very heavy duty and has a very effective first tooth, good for either deep sticks or hooking thin ice.

 

My opinion is that many so called top end ice tools are really more aimed at mixed climbing (or hooking) with their crazy bent shafts. The Matrix shaft has a shaft that seems pretty ideal for mainly ice with a good natural swing. It also has a nice bend at the grip that makes for a more ergonomic angle for the wrist.

 

Both Matrix tools are surprisingly light, but still drive the pick really nicely into ice due to head weight. Had Matrix Lights for a couple if years with the Horns added and got many comments on how much easier they were to swing than most tools. I found I got a lot less pumped because they stuck well (fewer swing) and had good balance and a thinner diameter, lighter shaft.

 

Am using Quarks now and not nomics as that tool seems the best swinging pure ice tool I have ever used. But the Grivels are pretty close.

 

So I would say stick with the matrix tools for ice, as that is what the OP seems to want to do. It really is a pretty ideal tool for stuff up to and far beyond WI4.

Edited November 3, 2013 by Coldfinger

[genepires]

I stand corrected. I was confused about what the aztarex was. My buddy had a pair of these from a way back and it was his WI tools. I liked them alot. But it looks like the line has changed since then. Looks like they don't even make them aztars anymore, only sumtec for summer alpine use.

 

 

[petsfed]

The original Aztars were designed to be a transition water-ice/alpine tool, so they're quite a bit heavier than the Aztarex, although they still suffer in conditions where you have to chop a bit to get purchase. They have a very shallow curve to them, so they don't do well in steep or chandaliered ice, but I've led WI3 with them fairly confidently. Honestly, the hard part for me was transitioning back to a leashed tool after climbing so much with my Vipers. The picks are very hard to find, since Petzl doesn't make them anymore (although you can still find Pulsar picks fairly easily), and the Aztar never had great sales to begin with. I like them a lot for low angle ice, couloirs, and otherwise situations where the weight of your pack, rather than the technical difficulties, will determine whether or not you summit.

 

The Aztarex was the Aztar on a serious diet, so they were really bad for climbing actual ice, but worked great for steep snow.

[G-spotter]

when you climbed WI4 and WI5 with, say, Hurricanes or Pulsars or Black Prophets it's pretty funny to hear that something as modern as the Aztar /Aztarex is only good up to WI3. certainly there are better options though

[DPS]

when you climbed WI4 and WI5 with, say, Hurricanes or Pulsars or Black Prophets it's pretty funny to hear that something as modern as the Aztar /Aztarex is only good up to WI3. certainly there are better options though

Agreed.

[Coldfinger]

I would add the aztarexs have metal grips which are both too slippery and thermally conductive(cold).

[Coldfinger]

when you climbed WI4 and WI5 with, say, Hurricanes or Pulsars or Black Prophets it's pretty funny to hear that something as modern as the Aztar /Aztarex is only good up to WI3. certainly there are better options though

 

Hmmm.

 

Have seen folks doing 5.12 in sneakers so what's your point?

 

Climbing ice with lightweight snow tools is about as much fun as soloing barefoot, even if it's 5.8!