rl23455 Posted September 2, 2013 Posted September 2, 2013 can anyone provide more beta on Dod's Jam alternate 5.9? I'm a little put out about doing the 10c Dod's Jam. I'm guessing though the alternate is lichen and dirty... T Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted September 3, 2013 Posted September 3, 2013 Two red 1 inch camalots tames the crux on Dod's. and then you get to do the amazing 5.9 Dastardly Crack for one pitch, and then a easy overgrown pitch to the trail. Can't beat it. Quote
kevbone Posted September 3, 2013 Posted September 3, 2013 Dastardly Crack 5.9? I think not. IMO. Quote
ivan Posted September 3, 2013 Posted September 3, 2013 Dastardly Crack 5.9? I think not. IMO. i'd agree more whole-heartedly if i could reliably climb 5.9 Â still, that thing is fucking hard-hard, and w/ a crack that makes the gear kinda sketch in places... Quote
pink Posted September 3, 2013 Posted September 3, 2013 (edited) Dastardly Crack 5.9? I think not. IMO. i'd agree more whole-heartedly if i could reliably climb 5.9 Â still, that thing is fucking hard-hard, and w/ a crack that makes the gear kinda sketch in places... Â yeah u pretty much solo at ur limit..... or right below your limit, which if you think about it, is pretty fucking retarded.... Edited September 3, 2013 by pink Quote
pink Posted September 3, 2013 Posted September 3, 2013 can anyone provide more beta on Dod's Jam alternate 5.9? I'm a little put out about doing the 10c Dod's Jam. I'm guessing though the alternate is lichen and dirty... T Â i'd go with what steve said, the dod's finish is great too and is the path less traveled, if your into that sorta thing Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted September 3, 2013 Posted September 3, 2013 Splitter! Send it, Dastardly! yeah baby! Corner crack off of Big Ledge. Best linkup at Beacon with FreeforAll and Dods, same splitter crack the whole way, takes you to the trail. Probably the best multipitch 5.10 climb in the Portland area? Â Quote
ivan Posted September 3, 2013 Posted September 3, 2013 i've done the original dod's finish several times - it's scary and pretty gross - first you have to stand in the peregrine's nest to belay, covered in shit n' fur n' feathers n' fins n' what not - at the end of that pitch you end up climbing up through a crack that's draining another such nest (maybe a vulture's though?). at this point you're on your own for anchors, and the path of least resistance winds aroudn such that the drag ends up being nasty. eventually you wind up below a big old fixed bong, where there's a 1-move wonder of 5.9 that is hard, hard. you can french through it though. now you have just a few meters of wandering through poison oak before arriving atop the norseman's head, where there's a bit more oak to contend with  worth doing once, i suppose - be careful up there, there's lots of big blocks covered in moss to send rainign down on climbers at the base - oleg once kicked off a 200 lb chunk when he fell at the crux - was certain he'd killed opdyck and was sick w/ fear until we got back down there to look for the greasy spot Quote
dougd Posted September 3, 2013 Posted September 3, 2013 now you have just a few meters of wandering through poison oak  'bout the only thing I don't miss out there is that fucking poison oak... Just reading about it makes me itch...  Anybody ever get up the N face of Broughton's anymore?  d Quote
ivan Posted September 3, 2013 Posted September 3, 2013 gandalf's as popular as ever - the oak's just a problem if you choose not to rap Quote
dougd Posted September 3, 2013 Posted September 3, 2013 I remember that 5.8 finish was a bit of a scrap to lead cuz it was dripping wet that day... Â Fun climb. Â Sorry for the thread drift. Â Thanks. Â d Quote
LostCamKenny Posted September 4, 2013 Posted September 4, 2013 Dastardly Crack 5.9? I think not. IMO. Dastardly is valley 5.9. Quote
pink Posted September 4, 2013 Posted September 4, 2013 Dastardly Crack 5.9? I think not. IMO. Dastardly is valley 5.9.  That's why it's called the Yosemite Decimal System   Quote
willstrickland Posted September 4, 2013 Posted September 4, 2013 Dastardly isn't particularly hard for 5.9 Â You boys just need to get out and live a little. It'd be 5.8 at Index...and 11b at Squamish ;^) Quote
pink Posted September 4, 2013 Posted September 4, 2013 Dastardly isn't particularly hard for 5.9Â You boys just need to get out and live a little. It'd be 5.8 at Index...and 11b at Squamish ;^) Â Â i'd say it the easiest 5.9d at beacon Quote
kevbone Posted September 5, 2013 Posted September 5, 2013 I give it 10.a and dont give a fuck what any of you think. Take that! Quote
cja Posted September 7, 2013 Posted September 7, 2013 Dastardly isn't particularly hard for 5.9Â You boys just need to get out and live a little. It'd be 5.8 at Index...and 11b at Squamish ;^) Â I like this sentiment...my first trip to Index this summer was a kick in the ass. I can't wait to get up to Squamish now Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted September 8, 2013 Posted September 8, 2013 Dastardly seems about the same difficulty as Godzilla at Index to me. Both 5.9 & stout, Ivan's favorite beverage. If Kevbone thinks the first pitch of Dastardly is 10a in the overall scheme of things, that's cool. Its certainly a glorious hand crack to fingers in the sky. Quote
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