Adams - What's left in August?

[baldmtn]

Will any decent routes on Adams still be in condition by early Aug? Was thinking in particular about Adams Glacier or the NW Ridge.

 

My partners want to do this but I'm not flying all the way from the east coast for the South Spur.

[YocumRidge]

The North Ridge is always "in condition" as it is a 5000' rock scramble, with or without snow cover.

 

The Adams Gl. is a totally different game. Three days ago, a couple of friends and I went for the "relaxing" weekend on the said route. After a high snow year, it is normally a cramponed walk up on the north side, but currently - not so much. We ended up climbing through overhanging ice for a couple of pitches, backing off, re-leading, routefinding in the maze of ice ramps. Only at 2 pm we made it to the crater. If you are up for this kind of adventure, go for it!

 

[APE]

Sounds like you took a harder line through the jumble than we did the day before! Had to back off some steep snow, but nothing overhung.

[Jason L.]

We are headed up there this weekend. Is route finding difficult the entire way up or just the lower sections?

[APE]

In general: stay right!

 

Start on an obvious ramp on the right side which goes to the right. Approaching the middle of the route, you'll be forced more to the center for awhile. For us, this was just after an ice traverse with a really good ledge for feet, followed by an exposed move to the left around a corner.

 

The middle is the route-finding crux and there are a few short ice steps. Maybe two 30 or 40ft pitches? I forget... mostly AI2 with a small bit of AI3.

 

Once you can work your way back to the right, it's just a bunch of moderately steep snow slopes. At one point we took a steep snow slope up only to find it lead to a large crevasse that was invisible from below. There was a snow bridge maybe 80ft to the right, most easily accessed by climbing into a small ledge inside the crevasse. But the correct thing to do would've been to head up on the right from the beginning of that pitch. Stay right!

 

From there, it's pretty easy snow slopes.

 

If you send me your email I can send some photos. Or you can tell me how to embed photos in a post.

[Jason L.]

PM Sent. Thanks!

[mattp]

I've enjoyed the NW Ridge in September. Some have complained that it is a choss heap - and it is - but it is also an excellent climb in my opinion. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder but if you want to do something other than the conga line on the south side I think the NW Ridge is not a bad choice and the camping below the route is real nice.

[Mtguide]

Adams Glacier Icefall is a route that just gets more interesting as the season wears on. I first did it in mid-August years ago and with all the snow cover gone it can present some excellent technical ice and route-finding challenges.

 

Mazama Glacier is a much less technical,(well, really none)climb, but a beautiful approach via Hellroaring Falls trail from Bird Creek Meadows and great base camp at Sunrise. Great views into the spectacular,massive icefall of the Klickitat, The Castle, Rusk Glacier, etc. Very alpine, very rugged and complex side of the mountain. But the Mazama itself is pretty simple and straightforward, cuts over onto the top of the South side route at about the level of Piker's Peak/False Summit. We did the Castle route on the Rusk in early August; just be sure you get a really early alpine start to avoid rock and icefall.

 

There's a ton of stuff around the far side of the mountain such as the Lava, Lyman and Wilson Glaciers, but longer approach. Consult Beckey's Guide for excellent photos and route descriptions. Many of these climbs have been done as late as August and even September.

 

 

 

[Jason L.]

We climbed Adams Glacier yesterday and the route finding wasn't nearly as bad as I expected (thanks APE!). For the most part it was solid snow, a little ice, and some slush (at the most inopportune moment). I would say the route will still be in for awhile longer if anyone still wants to go after it. I've seen very little talk about the route this year and we had it all to ourselves yesterday.

 

MOST IMPORTANT: If anyone climbs it and finds two screws with Hello Kitty stickers on it, I would be most thankful for their return. I will repay you with some fine beers.

 

 

 

 

[baldmtn]

Did you use the screws at all, or a second tool?

[Dchromey]

Nice picture! I'm thinking of doing adams glacier either this year in a couple weeks or next year.

[Jason L.]

A couple of screws and a second came in handy. At least one spot that was awkward enough to be happy to have brought it. Otherwise just generic steep slopes which made for fun times.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I've enjoyed the NW Ridge in September. Some have complained that it is a choss heap - and it is - but it is also an excellent climb in my opinion. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder but if you want to do something other than the conga line on the south side I think the NW Ridge is not a bad choice and the camping below the route is real nice.

 

 

class 3? (I'm thinking of doing something like this with my 11-year-old)