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telemarker

[TR] Snow Creek Wall - Tick-less ascent of Iconoclast 5/4/2013

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Trip: Snow Creek Wall - Tick-less ascent of Iconoclast

 

Date: 5/4/2013

 

Trip Report:

That's right, I think I found one tick on my arm the entire day. I didn't hear Jake Evans or Kyle Flick complaining of ticks either, so I think they had similar luck.

 

Iconoclast is a lot of fun, and a lot of challenge. There isn't a "gimme" pitch on the whole thing, other than the 3rd class scramble from the ground to a small platform to start the Remorse travers to one tree ledge.

 

The funky slab crack of Psychopath is a handful, and somewhat of a mental game. I think some people climb the crack straight up, while others (me) layback the crux part, move out left on a couple positive chicken heads for a few face moves, then perform a gripping barndoor back into the crack up higher.

 

The next pitch looks worse than it actually is. It feels like 5.8 climbing around two roofs and over a completely detached block that will crush you if/when it ever decides to succumb to gravity. This was the location of natural rockfall three years ago.

 

The yellow wall follows, with steep, slightly overhanging climbing that goes from thin locks to jug hauling, to smeary laybacks to finish it off. This is my favorite pitch of the route, and always challenges me.

 

The final pitch of Iconoclast is a sustained 180' of varied climbing. Make a committing traverse way beyond and right of a lone bolt to another way committing move to a good crack for gear. From there, snag the arete and swing out over the shield. It's lower angled, but still feels exposed in the 90 or so feet of chickenhead yarding protected by one lone bolt. You get relief near library ledge in the form of a beautiful 5.8, locker hands corner to the anchor.

 

The bonus of Iconoclast is one gets to finish on the final headwall crack of Outer Space.

 

I've always used Iconoclast as an early spring climb to gauge my baseline for how well I've maintained fitness over the winter, given the challenging climbing and sometimes committing moves. Well worth a few more trips throughout the year!

 

Flick kindly demonstrating the barndoor back into the crack on Psychopath DSCN04461.JPG

The climbing certainly doesn't let up too much up higher

DSCN04512.JPG

Jake takes his turn

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Top of yellow wall

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The 5.8 corner of glory

DSCN0483.JPG

 

DSCN0486.JPG

 

Of course sometimes, you have to wait your turn on Outer Space

DSCN0496.JPG

 

Edited by telemarker

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Thanks Veronica and Drep!

 

Jake did really well. There were even moments when it looked like he was rock climbing.

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Truly, any ascent on SCW in early season is worthy if no issues with goats, snakes, or ticks are involved. I'm waiting for a report on the first ascent of Outer Space.

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Tick-less you say?! I ripped about 20 of those dreadful scumbugs off me last month up there. I found one leaching on me two days later.

 

Nice work on Iconoclast!

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By the way Matt, I think Rafael and I snagged the first of the year on March 30th. It was in great shape except the wet first two pitches and the icy/snowy finish. I probably won't put up a report, pictures didn't turn out to great.

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[img:left]Iconoclast_psychopath-100.jpg[/img] [img:left]Iconoclast_psychopath-101.jpg[/img] [img:center]Iconoclast_psychopath-102.jpg[/img] [img:left]Iconoclast_psychopath-103.jpg[/img] [img:center]Iconoclast_psychopath-105.jpg[/img]

Edited by Woodcutter

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Sun-tan,

Some-tan....

...............from the software, Adobe.... geddit....? Doh, go to Yosimite why don't you.

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Nice to see that you've been well covered through the winter John. Do you bleach your skin, or is that au natural?

 

Nice description of the route, too. Sounds like you've been on that thing once or twice before...

 

 

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Nice to see that you've been well covered through the winter John. Do you bleach your skin, or is that au natural?

 

Nice description of the route, too. Sounds like you've been on that thing once or twice before...

 

 

My cure for sun damage and skin cancer prevention is to just have Jake photoshop a tan on me.

 

Uh, despite appearances, I do not own or use a GoPro while climbing. For the record...

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