Woodcutter Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 ...plus some route suggestions would be good. I've aided ...naught...but want to get up Liberty Crack this summer in reasonable style. I have a biggish rock rack plus some pitons. Plenty of trad experience. ??? Thanks. Jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 index. or even if you got plenty of midweek free time, why not just go up and aid those 4 pitches of liberty crack a couple times? you would definately have the rack dialed in by the time you decide to go for it for reals. leave the pins at home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 (edited) I did the exact same thing last summer.... Went to to Index, aided City Park. The first 30' are a bolt ladder so you get used to standing in aiders, then move into tiny nut placements once you hit the "business." Tiny offset brassies will be your best friend here. About 1/2 way up the first pitch you can bail off to the left and hit some bolted anchors on another climb and bail if necessary. It took me 90 minutes to reach those anchors (maybe 50'?) on my first attempt. Sooooo slooooooooooooowwwww. Hopefully you manage better. After running up that a second time, we went out to Washington Pass the next day to attempt Liberty Crack. Last year in August the snow pack at the base was pretty treacherous and still quite long - Microspikes would have been REAL nice to have. We sorta crawled our way up using nut tools... pretty sketchy. Watch all the Supertopo videos on "Learn to Aid Climb" first. Make sure to save some daylight to find the rap slings off the summit of the Liberty Bell... they're around a small shrub down the left side off the summit. A small, exposed downscramble is required. Good luck! EDIT - If you happen to find a small point-and-shoot camera on the approach in the talus below the Bell, please let me know. I'd really love to get the pictures off that card. Edited May 3, 2013 by Jon H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Some good ideas (and some goofy ones) here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Index lower town wall is a good place to practice your piton craft too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 before anyone gets their panties in a wad, i suspect that the above comment is sarcasm, a joke. Pins in the LTW is a bad idea. I would say that a trip up town crier would be a good prep for the aid on lib crack but it is closed till july. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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