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Posted

Only downside is the Mountaineers Route descent will be melted out to an endless scree gully. No worse than many Cascade peaks though.

 

Be sure and do Mt Russell too, while you're in the neighborhood.

Posted
Only downside is the Mountaineers Route descent will be melted out to an endless scree gully. No worse than many Cascade peaks though.

 

Be sure and do Mt Russell too, while you're in the neighborhood.

 

ah, then I can leave ice axe and pons home though!

 

can't imagine anything could be worse than the crapcadian couloir

Posted

Did it in September and it was perfect weather and lower crowds. Brisk in the morning. The descent is a piece of cake compared to the Cascadian.

 

Second the Mt Russell comment. Fishhook arete is a mega classic and WAY more interesting than the East face. Not to be missed if you're camping up there for a few days.

Posted
I'm contemplating a trip down to Whitney in Sep. Is the weather typically stable and warm enough for this route in the 1st two weeks of Sept?

 

That's when we did it. There was spots of snow in the gully but nothing you couldn't scramble around. We did the East Buttress and descended the Mountaineers route. It was a little chilly, I was wearing one of those thin lightweight puffies. Clear skies and sunshine the whole time.

 

I set the rack down on the summit and forgot to pick it up. Got to the bottom of the Mountaineers route before I realized it. So I climbed both routes in one day. It's actually not that long of a climb either way since the base is so high. Iceberg lake is 12,650' and you hike another 500' or so to the start of the climb.

 

Looking up from above Iceberg, the Mnts gulley is the notch on the right

up1.jpg

 

 

Looking down the East Buttress at Iceberg and all the way down to Lone Pine. If I did it again I would camp at or near the small lake middle right of pic. Upper Boy Scout you can't see Whitney and Iceberg is too high for sleeping.

down5.jpg

Posted

The Cascades set the bar for suffering. The Sierras may spoil you.

 

Check out Peter Croft's book on E. Sierra moderate alpine classics. It is "Good, Great, and Awesome" from one of the best and will keep you from getting Californicated and is a good read even if you don't do any of the climbs.

Posted
ah, then I can leave ice axe and pons home though!

 

A great trip to travel light on. We took summer bags with bivy sacks. Puffy and gloves essential though.

 

That approach is a GRUNT - 4k of up that starts around 8.5. But it's highly varied (pine forest, mega-boulder fields, exposed ledges, water washed slabs, etc.) and nearly brush free.

Posted
ah, then I can leave ice axe and pons home though!

 

A great trip to travel light on. We took summer bags with bivy sacks. Puffy and gloves essential though.

 

That approach is a GRUNT - 4k of up that starts around 8.5. But it's highly varied (pine forest, mega-boulder fields, exposed ledges, water washed slabs, etc.) and nearly brush free.

 

Can't be worse than the approach to The Mole was. :-)

 

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