[TR] Oregon Madness. - March Madness, Crown Jewel, Black Spider 2/2/2013

Dasan · February 9, 2013

Trip: Oregon Madness. - March Madness, Crown Jewel, Black Spider

Date: 2/2/2013

Trip Report:

March Madness, Crown Jewel, Black Spider

I climbed March Madness and Crown Jewel this January, both for the first time and had great experiences. I climbed March Madness, and some other ice runnels, solo and found it rewarding climbing, spending time being extra attentive and purposeful about pick placements due to its interact nature on March Madness, sometimes having to dig beneath a layer of sun effected ice and insubstantial drips. As for Crown Jewel, not that its there anymore, was probably the most fun I have ever had climbing in Oregon and got to share it with good company. I found myself laughing joyfully the whole way up, mostly moving over 4"-8" plastic ice, thinner in spots and opportunities to sink a couple 16cm and a nice apron to cling at the top of out second pitch. Once we toped out, we climbed steep moss and mud to a ridge to the east and walk it to the road. Lastly, We, myself and two friends, went up the Center Drip on the Black Spider on February 2nd. Which, like Wayne said, is a very do-able route. No harder then say WI3 with some foot placements on rock here and there, with perfect sticks, seriously, the ice was fucking amazing. We soloed everything but the last pitch, which was the crux and was a very fun, airy lead. We started at timberline, up the palmer, and round under steal cliffs, around Wy'est. Eleven and a half hours round trip. Found a picket, a sling and a locker in the chute we down climbed after summiting, think it might have been the Mazama's Chute.

Happy Climbing. Here are some pics.

Gear Notes:

Full rubber raincoat for Crown Jewel in the conditions we climbed it in.

Approach Notes:

For Crown Jewel there is a rail road pull out between Exit 22 and Exit 23 on 84 just before Mirror Lake that is the best access. Park and walk down the tracks to the base of the climb.