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The Cascade Kid

Dry Tool Crags

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It's that pre-winter do-something-other-than-climb non-season, and I'm getting antsy.


Does anyone know:


Are there any known and accepted dry-tool/mixed crags either in the Columbia River Gorge or in the Mt Hood environs?


If you have a less public location and would prefer a belay as an information trade, pm me.



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Cape Horn would be perfect.


A) Easy access


B) No rock routes.


I'd stay off Cigar Rock, it does have routes.



Cape Horn:



If you are looking for some FA's, the 3 pinnacles on the left in the lower photo are as yet unclimbed I believe. I was thinking of it, but keep putting it off.


You can literally take a (new) easy, wide trail from the SR 14 road to the top of the cliff above the RR portal and set up a toprope (stay off the tracks of course). Park at the obvious turnout with the portapotty (which may be gone as they are doing road construction) at approx milepost 27-28 at the sharp right hand sweeping turn (you'll see the trail right there, no trail head marker yet) or I can give you better directions to get to the base of pinnacles with out rapping. To the right of that grassy spot in the lower pic, from the car, is less than a 1/4 and close to flat. Real sweet, easy, wheelchair access.


The west side of the cliffs, accessed via the lower Cape Horn trail area, closes in Feb due to Peregrines, however, you could probably (cautiously) go to the other end of the cliff after Feb. The upper stays open and there is a couple cliffs up there that would be less desirable. The other end of the lower band has got to be close to a full mile away, and that side (east side) would be further complicated as the lower part is private property (farms).




Lets see a trip report of how heinous it is:-) Wear helmets....have fun.

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I have lowered down over some of that stuff recently and would like to submit that rock is absolute shite. It is in a beautiful spot though. It is nice frozen in place, but when that happens it can feel like an Amundsen/Scott south pole expedition.

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people get pissy about pounding pins, place 'em and don't tell. It's one of my favorite things about mixed climbing.


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