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2x 9a OS


glassgowkiss
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Ondra is firing on all cylinders at present so the media and locals (who are licking their wounds) want consensus since he is making things look easy. Woods is backing Ondra but he is also firing on all cylinders. Watch out if either one visits your local crag.

 

Wonder what they would think about the grades at Squamish? :)

Edited by matt_warfield
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Top line sportos might pucker on lines different than half pad crimps and one or two finger pockets on lifestone or tuff. Squamish's "soft" ratings have given pause to many not used to granite slab, subtle face, and crack of a variety of widths.

Then again, hell might freeze over too...

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Top line sportos might pucker on lines different than half pad crimps and one or two finger pockets on lifestone or tuff. Squamish's "soft" ratings have given pause to many not used to granite slab, subtle face, and crack of a variety of widths.

Then again, hell might freeze over too...

 

I am not sure how many times hell has frozen over but it has happened enough times on the rock to make a glacier. Slab and off-hands and offwidths with no hand holds and bad weather are great equalizers for starters.

 

Start with Pipeline free solo, go to Unfunished Symphony, then to left side of Split Pillar, then the locals can give more suggestions.

 

Squamish can represent.

Edited by matt_warfield
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Top line sportos might pucker on lines different than half pad crimps and one or two finger pockets on lifestone or tuff. Squamish's "soft" ratings have given pause to many not used to granite slab, subtle face, and crack of a variety of widths.

Then again, hell might freeze over too...

 

I am not sure how many times hell has frozen over but it has happened enough times on the rock to make a glacier. Slab and off-hands and offwidths with no hand holds and bad weather are great equalizers for starters.

 

Start with Pipeline free solo, go to Unfunished Symphony, then to left side of Split Pillar, then the locals can give more suggestions.

 

Squamish can represent.

 

Are you seriously saying that someone who is onsighting 9a is gonna have much of a hard time with the split (either side) or pipeline (solo = stupid, doesn't affect the rating)???? ROTFL

 

Ethan Pringle is an example of a high end "sporto" who made the transition to gear/trad/whatever in a season, culminating in a rapid ascent of Squamish's current trad testpiece (Cobra Crack).

 

Plus, anyone climbing at a 9a (or even 8a) onsight level will very very quickly adjust to "granite slab, subtle face, and crack of a variety of widths..." if they so choose to.

 

The level of climbing is going through the roof. Another example is 11 year old Mirko...several 5.14 ascents. You wanna guess what his first crack climb was? Bachar Cracker, yup...a V4 boulder problem...Now, take a guess of what his second crack climb was...Oh, alright, i'll tell you. The Rostrum, onsight.

 

Make no mistake, a high end sport climber is a climber. They are bold, and they learn quick. There is no magic to granite grades, just a little bit of mileage.

 

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Rumr,

 

I agree with you in principle, especially with the top end. My comment was about how many sport climbers "underneath" the top end would get schooled when there is not a hold but a jam or a stem or a hand stack. I'd just like to see Pringle Leavitate on an offwidth.

 

BTW I witnessed Pringle on Just Do It at Smith so I know what he can do. I'm just sayin'.

 

And Drew is awesome.

Edited by matt_warfield
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Top line sportos might pucker on lines different than half pad crimps and one or two finger pockets on lifestone or tuff. Squamish's "soft" ratings have given pause to many not used to granite slab, subtle face, and crack of a variety of widths.

Then again, hell might freeze over too...

 

I am not sure how many times hell has frozen over but it has happened enough times on the rock to make a glacier. Slab and off-hands and offwidths with no hand holds and bad weather are great equalizers for starters.

 

Start with Pipeline free solo, go to Unfunished Symphony, then to left side of Split Pillar, then the locals can give more suggestions.

 

Squamish can represent.

what represents Squamish is Cobra Crack and climbs of the new generation done by Stanhope and crew. your list is for an average upper end weekend climber.

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GGK,

 

Of course Cobra Crack is state of the art but BC also has a host of other climbs that are above the level I previously reported:

 

- University Wall

- Eurasian Eyes

- Pulse

- Captain America

- Dream Catcher

 

From bottom to top, they may catch the attention of of most climbers.

 

And I still have a hard time seeing Ondra free soloing Pipeline onsight.

Edited by matt_warfield
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stop being dense, rudy. everyone knows the reason the top sportos don't go to squamish is that they don't want to be seen struggling on apron strings, exasperator, etc. our granite routes are soooo much harder than anything those decadent euros have...

 

besides, i still don't see how any of this red river gorge stuff is more interesting than plaidman's new route on the steeple.

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Are you seriously saying that someone who is onsighting 9a is gonna have much of a hard time with the split (either side) or pipeline (solo = stupid, doesn't affect the rating)???? ROTFL

 

hell's yeah solo affects (apparent) rating!!!

 

5.9 slippery slab onsite can have a magical way of transforming itself into a hell of an affair when the rope ain't there to catch ya!

 

and we have no idea what anyone might do on a particular route. would i bet against ondra on split left? well that's silly! but i have taken a 5.14+ climber to index before.... let's just say granite has a way of messing with ya if ya ain't used to it.

 

 

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who said anything about soloing 5.9 slippery slab? Plus ropeless on sport routes has the same magical way with those ratings...don'tcha think?

 

I qualified my statements by saying "There is no magic to granite grades, just a little bit of mileage."...reading comprehension, dear boy!

 

Also these routes quoted by Matt are sport routes (hell, two of them aren't even in squamish):

- Eurasian Eyes

- Pulse

- Captain America

- Dream Catcher

 

Dream Catcher, and Captain America were all put up by "sportos" (although Mike did spend a fair bit of time at Index). Pulse and Eurasion Eyes are sandford routes i believe...also a sporto...

 

Point is 9a (or 8c+ now, i guess) onsighting is cutting edge for the time being and a comment like "I'd like to see him solo some offwidth" is so corny, it kills me...

 

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who said anything about soloing 5.9 slippery slab?

 

i did, dear boy!

 

I qualified my statements by saying "There is no magic to granite grades, just a little bit of mileage."...reading comprehension, dear boy!

 

"just a little bit of mileage" that some top end sportos might not have. meaning: they might have some serious troubles on certain granite routes at first. logic, dear boy!

 

i think climbing certain granite routes is almost a different sport altogether, especially when compared to the red.

Edited by Kimmo
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who said anything about soloing 5.9 slippery slab? Plus ropeless on sport routes has the same magical way with those ratings...don'tcha think?

 

I qualified my statements by saying "There is no magic to granite grades, just a little bit of mileage."...reading comprehension, dear boy!

 

Also these routes quoted by Matt are sport routes (hell, two of them aren't even in squamish):

- Eurasian Eyes

- Pulse

- Captain America

- Dream Catcher

 

Dream Catcher, and Captain America were all put up by "sportos" (although Mike did spend a fair bit of time at Index). Pulse and Eurasion Eyes are sandford routes i believe...also a sporto...

 

Point is 9a (or 8c+ now, i guess) onsighting is cutting edge for the time being and a comment like "I'd like to see him solo some offwidth" is so corny, it kills me...

 

Sandford did Eurasian Eyes and Pulse and did plenty of cracks and slab as well. Orr did Captain America and Sharma Dream Catcher. But the point is the ratings discussion and climbs "near" Squamish and none of those climbs will be downrated anytime soon.

 

And most 5.14 climbers can easily fall off of 5.11 slab or 5.12 offwidth on granite. That is my point and seems to agree with Kimmo's.

 

Pipeline FA free solo is perhaps not pertinent to this discussion, I admit, but I just love the story.

Edited by matt_warfield
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Wonder what they would think about the grades at Squamish? :)

 

I know two or three 5.13's in the Smoke Bluffs I can pretty much guarantee Ondra himself wouldn't onsight. Beta flash with chalk on the holds perhaps :toad:

 

Ondra is one kick-ass mutherfucker though. The tantrums are a bit over the top, it's like, "Bro, you just pumped off a 5.15 and it sounds like you shoved your dick in a blender, don't beat yourself up". But he seems to really love climbing and is really psyched to keep pushing limits, and is doing a VERY good job. Rock on Adam :rocken:

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