[TR] Yak Peak - SOMWOW 9/15/2012

[JasonG]

Trip: Yak Peak - SOMWOW

 

Date: 9/15/2012

 

Trip Report:

A year or so ago I found out about this relatively new route on the SW side of Yak and put it on the list to check out. Now that I'm not getting on the rock so much, I'm always keen to try a new multi-pitch 5.8. I'm glad somebody out there is catering to the shaky weekend warrior. An good topo can be found here .

 

As the link states, it is quite runout (2-3 bolts per 60m is common), which isn't really a problem for many of the pitches as they are low to mid fifth. I did get a little excited on the 5.8+ pitch as it only had two bolts in the first 40m or so with NO gear. There is gear, but only after the climbing eases considerably. It seems odd to not up the bolt count on the hardest pitch, but hey, I can't complain. The FA party did a lot of work on this climb, and a new approach trail to the west side of the slab, so kudos to them.

 

Other than the "crux" pitch the climbing is pretty fun, if a little on the boring side. Some of the pitches are mellow enough that you could probably walk up portions of them. As neither Gordo or myself had climbed Yak before, we continued on to the summit for the walk off. This seemed much better than rapping the route (rolling ropes down the endless slab), and the scrambling to the summit is fun and scenic. Plus, walking down puts you right underneath the harder climbs such as Yak Crack and Reality Check. I will certainly need to come back and give Yak Check a go, it looks great!

 

SOMWOW goes up this side of Yak

 

Looking up from the base of the route

 

Yes, the highway is right there. Noisy, but the approach is quick.

 

Gordo about pitch 13 or so. He is just above the 5.8 bit

 

View south past Needle Peak from the summit of Yak

 

The Steinbok Area I think.

 

Yak Crack area from the hike down.

 

Walking back along the highway to the rest area is like perusing a junk yard. Makes you think that keeping the helmet on might be a good idea.

 

Gear Notes:

The topo says to bring a full rack, but really you only will need a few small/medium cams. You won't be able to place much on the 5.8 pitch. Certainly no doubles needed.

 

Approach Notes:

Follow the instructions on the link, they work perfectly. Scramble up and walk off.

[matt_warfield]

Good TR. For further adventures at any grade level, head to the Squamish area sometime. It is like Yak times 100.

[JasonG]

Very true, but it is nice to get away from the masses and stand on a summit. Of course, that is probably why I've never been a great rock climber....

[seth holton]

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/smoke-room-Yak-Attack-2011.html

 

 

[therunningdog]

Who is this "Gordo" you are climbing with? WOW! What a handsome man he is!

[G-spotter]

I thought this line was more like 5.6, but I must admit the crux pitch was soaking wet and we climbed a flake to the left instead. All the other pitches were overgraded.

 

Speedway, right next door, has way more quality pitches and less roped hiking, but it's harder to top out on that one.

Yak Check is really good too. Probably the best route on the peak overall, especially with the belay hardware upgraded since 2007.

 

Hoping to get up there again this year before the snow falls.

[JasonG]

Agreed, with a couple of exceptions, most of the pitches felt 5.0. The 5.8 pitch felt truer to grade, though maybe that was the lack of bolts.

 

And Mr. Dog, why yes Gordo is a very handsome man. While he is much in demand in Europe, his guiding career in NA has not quite taken off yet. Book a trip with him today!

 

 

[sepultura]

This Gordo, how does one get in contact? Will he guide us on the Himmelhorn and play the accordion at Ma-Ma's Birthday? Can he teach the children a thing or to about this sport climbing they seem to love?