Mt Robson- Conditions

[Terminal_Gravity]

Any body have any idea what the snow conditions on the SSW buttress of Mt. Robson are like. I'm going to go solo next week anyway, but a heads up would help.

[Dru]

Getting freshies as of last week.

Look out for serac collapses on that SSW buttress, it goes regularily. Give us a TR if you survive.

[Terminal_Gravity]

Thanks Dru,

I'll give a report around 9/19...or my wife will send a eulogy.

[Guest]

What the fuck. How can you ask for beta on a mountain like Robson? The weather is mostly fucked, and the past two years have been low snow years. There's your fuckin beta.

Do you need your mom to hold your hand when you go climbing?

Some of the questions people ask are fucking lame. Go try to climb it and shut up.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I know who Bonzo is but I aint tellin'! Shame on you Bonzo aka ???

Well good luck there man. Looks like a big scary mtn to me.

[slaphappy]

I know too!

[Cpt.Caveman]

Killer I was peeking when he posted

[slaphappy]

Me too!

[Terminal_Gravity]

Thanks Dru, for your snow report and thanks Cpt.C for your comment and encouragement.

My trip was intended as a recon climb with the possibility of summiting. It was a truly great trip. Mt. Robson is a spectacular mountain. I will be back.

The glacier was very active and did not pay any attention to diurnal temperture changes...from the summit of little Robson I counted 6 major pieces breaking off of the upper hanging glacier from 1:00am to 3:45am.

I choose not climb higher than little Robson. Above it the old regular route invloves about a thousand feet of broken class 4 (when dry) ledges above a rock head wall and below an active hanging glacier. Currently they are verglassed and then covered by fresh snow. The glacier wall could be climbed directly (170ft of 70-90 degrees). I unfortunately brought only enough gear to protect short cruxes and could have used a belayer.

After freesoloing up 1500 ft of loose, sometimes wet 3rd, 4th and sometimes easy 5th class rock with a heavy pack to the col between L. Robson and the upper S. Face, I decided to take the lower snow field down. It provided plenty of fun. To stay out of the avalanche chute until I got low enough to react to a dump I got on to some pretty steep ice, punched into a couple of crevasses. And true to form, when I got low enough a few van sized blockes dumped. I ran to the side and they passed harmlessly.

If any one wants anymore info about climbing Robson let me know.

Cpt.Caveman,

I have to say that Bonzo's comments were small-minded and mean-spirited. It is his sort of competitive "look at me" bullshit attitude that leads me to climb solo more often that not. Let me know your thoughts but I felt that my inquery was appropriate for this forum. He seems to imply that asking for beta about significant mountains is less appropriate than maybe wether or not to use your left or right hand on that new problem down at the lycra gym. He is clearly a poser and a puss. He can't even admit who he is. What I really think is that he would sit on his gelatinous ass in front of his computer, masturbating his ego in front of us rather than climb.

So Bonko,

Here is your big chance to be a positive part of the climbing community and take a step toward becoming a human being. Apologize to me and other forumers. I do however expect you to reply with another acidic response and give us all some more of your eloquent drivel.

Steve Carper

 

[Guest]

TG,

Thank you for taking my comments personally. That is all I could hope for.

If I met you in person I would wish you well, but advise you that on a large mountain, with rapidly changing weather and snow conditions, asking for beta is dumb; especially a mountain like Robson. How do I know this? Because I summited the mountain via the Wishbone Arete you idiot. I did this on my fourth atempt to climb the mountain. We started in clear weather and summited in a snow storm. We didn't ask for beta; we were in the Rockies the weather looked good and we went for it. By the way all that 4th class stuff you were bragging about soloing we downclimbed in the dark after 18 hours of climbing.

I mostly posted because of all the stupid questions I've read on this site not yours specificly.

Thats fine if you hate me. Bite me TG I've forgotten more about climbing than you'll ever know.

 

[David_Parker]

Way to go Bozo! Will you be my new hero?

[Cpt.Caveman]

I know who Bonzo is He is my hero.

[Dru]

Maybe Bonzo is Bob Cordery-Cotter and he's jealous?

[johnny]

David, He IS my new hero. Bonzo, get over your big bad self. I probably can't and never will be able to climb as good as you seem to think you are but so fucking what?

Lots of us are looking for knowledge and I bet you asked some pretty dumb questions yourself? Your attitude has absolutely no place on this BB. Do us all a favor and go free solo something way over your head.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Not quite but I vow secrecy and will not reveal his real identity. Like he would care

Anyway I caught him the same way I found out who Hayduke was

[johnny]

Was that by accidentally opening the bathroom door at a bad time?

[Cpt.Caveman]

No Johnny

If you are trying to start shit with me now forget it.

[johnny]

Easy there, caveman. No harm intended, just riding the sarcastic spray fest to distract me from my work like the rest of you. Besides, the poke was intended for the gracious and forgiving BOZO!

[Cpt.Caveman]

Ok Peace

[MountainMan]

There are a couple of people on this site who are clearly younger in mind than the rest. I like coming to this site for trip beta and to learn things about the Cascades that I didn't know before. There are some really good people on this site who are willing to offer positive feedback to people who have honest questions. Then there are those who think their questions are the only ones that matter .. who snicker like little kids when someone asks a serious question ... who offer smart-ass advice for someone who wants information on a climbing route. Either you have the information or you don't .. if you don't, fine .. read the damned post and move on with your life. I'm quite sure if someone is asking a question about Mt. Robson that they understand the dangers involved in mountaineering and the ever-changing nature of environmental conditions in the alpine wilderness. I've been climbing in the Cascades for 20 years .. throughout those 20 years, 99.9% of the climbers I have met have been very helpful and kind. It isn't until I came to this website that I met some true assholes. It's a real shame to have to come here and read this juvenile fodder. Maybe these little kids should put disclaimers in their signatures informing readers that not all cascade climbers are that ignorant. Then again, maybe they should just think about what they're saying before they type it. Thats my opinion, take it for what it's worth. And don't bother replying to me directly, because I won't be back to this thread.

[Terminal_Gravity]

Whoa Bonzo,

Let's ratchet back a couple of notches.

I should say that the thing that got to me the most was the fact that you appeared to be hideing behind a psuedonym. I actually agree with your attitude about beta on big mountains. The irony of your comment is that the only beta (if you call it that) that I was hoping for was news of a bit of fresh snow, (Thanks Dru). I personnally enjoy adding to the adventure of mountaineering by not knowing to much and was hoping to have the trudge line covered.

It looks like took thing a bit personally too; tit for tat is all. I do respect your climbing ability and wish you well.

I am a newbie on this forum but you don't know shit about my climbing history. We could compare resumes but that would be a bit like comparing dick sizes; and I don't like you that much.

You may well be a better climber than I am, good for you. I will be better than I am today. Isn't that all that anyone can say. I do kick myself for giving up on alpine climbing for 6 years after a horrible climb in the Himalayas in '83... 6 days penned in a white out, altitude sick. I'm not perfect and have had periods in my life when climbing was not much of a priority.

I don't hate you Bonzo and I apreciate your intent. Sorry about the "gelatinous ass" comment.

TG

[Cpt.Caveman]

Mtnman,

You whine like a woman. Maybe you should change your name?

Later

[Guest]

I respect the Captain, but all the rest of you are funny, and I don't mean funny haha.

especially mountainbitch

[This message has been edited by Bonzo (edited 09-21-2001).]

[Dru]

Here a picture showing TG''s route. Scary death serracs are visible if you squint. One of the few pics on the web without clouds over the summit! Thanks to david wassermann for the pic.