Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
skiinggiraffe

[TR] Mt Rainier - DC Route - ctc 8/25/2012

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mt Rainier - DC Route - ctc

 

Date: 8/25/2012

 

Trip Report:

Steve and I wanted to get out there over the weekend and decided to go for the most mountain we could do in one day; Rainier DC (cleaver north face indirect variation), car-to-car.

 

We started out from Paradise at 9pm Saturday night in perfect cool clear conditions. 11pm had us at Camp Muir where we roped up, got some food and water then headed out across the Cowlitz. This is the latest in the season I've climbed Rainier and was surprised how broken the Cowlitz is, even right at Muir. Still very passable, but definitely a few steps over gappers on the way to Cathedral Gap. By 12am we had negotiated the heavily broken traverse over the Ingraham to the base of the cleaver (well worn track straight up from the flats, then two ways to pick through 20+ foot cravases, one up and over, one following a narrow bridge a little lower), then promptly followed a path too far right and ended up on the North 'face' of the cleaver. From here we needed to get back on the crest through the fairly loose blocks and gravel, so we carefully picked our way up by scrambling 4th class in the dark. Finally at the top of the cleaver we were feeling the elevation and getting pretty tired so we sat down for a good 25-30 min break. At about 2am we took off for the summit, reaching the crest at 5am. With the wind already high (~30mph) and building, we started our descent maybe 15min later.

 

Ladder at ~13,000'

[img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3OPDmwJ0Uyk/UD1FQOID9aI/AAAAAAAAF8s/4Pu6fo2m_cE/s576/Rainier%2520ctc%2520%252712%2520007.JPG[/img]

 

Traffic jam at ladder, luckily we were going the other way...

[img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_Mx_7_XulAo/UD1FQLFADCI/AAAAAAAAF9E/x_vf_cra8kI/s800/Rainier%2520ctc%2520%252712%2520008.JPG[/img]

 

About an hour into our descent the sun crested the horizon and we witnessed the formation of a lenticular cloud just above us as the winds picked up.

[img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2TnDusn7bBo/UD1FRUTlriI/AAAAAAAAF9U/lDk8WWx3IoU/s800/Rainier%2520ctc%2520%252712%2520049.JPG[/img]

 

[img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GdgwKx_a4bw/UD1FQEoiSfI/AAAAAAAAF8o/3orRG5F490E/s800/Rainier%2520ctc%2520%252712%2520010.JPG[/img]

 

[img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4jwEAWVgVpM/UD1FRJbY-uI/AAAAAAAAF88/7pJhZ1zvD6c/s800/Rainier%2520ctc%2520%252712%2520016.JPG[/img]

 

[img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d-kVoXCb9BY/UD1FQy5vr6I/AAAAAAAAF80/teM5wOE61JQ/s800/Rainier%2520ctc%2520%252712%2520015.JPG[/img]

 

By 9:30am we were back down to greenery and were able to better see how much the weather deteriorated up high

[img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DlCcsQP72Wc/UD1FRXH_bTI/AAAAAAAAF9M/Buj-xXd0rh0/s800/Rainier%2520ctc%2520%252712%2520048.JPG[/img]

 

On our way back down several guided parties and other groups had bottle-necked at the ladder, hopefully they were all able to get the summit and back out before the wind got too uncomfortable. As we passed back through Cathedral Gap, gusty winds kept knocking us over, making the going pretty slow and difficult to see with the blowing dust.

 

All in all, a long night and a lot of gain, but a good time after it's all said and done.

 

Gear Notes:

-Standard glacier travel/rescue gear

-Can-Do attitude

 

Approach Notes:

Timeline:

Leave Paradise - 21:00 sat

Camp Muir - 23:00

Base of DC - 24:00 sun

Columbia Crest - 05:00

Paradise - 10:00

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FYI - Last Sat a new route was established to bypass the ladder. It's now quicker to traverse north from the top of the Cleaver to the Emmons shoulder and back than wait at the ladder, which likely won't last much longer...

 

Trip: Mt Rainier - DC Route - ctc

 

On our way back down several guided parties and other groups had bottle-necked at the ladder, hopefully they were all able to get the summit and back out before the wind got too uncomfortable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice TR and pics! I popped out of my tent at the flats and chatted with you 2 on your descent. Holy f*ck 2 hours from paradise to muir??!! Nice work!! I'm glad we slept in the wind was horrendous just an hour after you left.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×