[TR] WA Pass - SUPERCAVE 8/1/2012

[Blake]

Trip: WA Pass - SUPERCAVE

 

Date: 8/1/2012

 

Trip Report:

The Supercave route must be one of the very best routes at Washington Pass and I am already eager for another go at it.

 

 

Inspired by meeting the FAists on a hitch-hike several summers ago, and then reading their report after their multi-year project was completed, a friend and I started up one afternoon a few weeks ago, not sure what to expect. But despite only climbing 5 of the 8 pitches, we were both amazed by the route. We reached the cave and rapped, but the final 3 pitches look great.

 

Here's the corner crack halfway up p2 - flawless white granite

 

The approach is less than an hour and the rock is as good as the E. Face of Liberty Bell.

 

There was snow and running water at the base on Aug1, but that is all likely gone now. It's still less than an hour of walking from the car. If the gully is wet, just stay skier's right.

 

Following the flakes under roof on p3:

 

Starting double cracks on p2:

 

Walk to the far R. end of a lege below the wall and begin in an LFC. Grades and pitch lengths are foggy guesses.

 

P1 - 40m 5.10- left-face corner, left of the bail 'biner. Ends at 2 rap bolts by tree.

 

P2 - 50m? 5.10+ Leftish up double crack, then amazing fingers in corner, mantle up and face climb up easier-than-it-looks terrain, end at 2 rap bolts.

 

P3 - 30m? 5.9ish - Walk left and go up white and tan flakes that lead up and left to small stance belay underneath roof.

 

p4 - 40m? 5.10+ Amazing steep corners left under roof and then farther left and up through roof to semi-hanging stance in LFC. I forget if this belay is bolted, I think there's a fixed wire and/or pin.

 

p5 - 30m? 5.11+ Up the leaning LFC, clip bolt out right, pull over on huecos, finesse your way up, clip 2nd protction bolt, and then slightly right and up to rap-bolts on left edge of cave.

 

From here the route goes up from the left side of the cave for 3 pitches.

 

We slung a tree at the bottom of the cave and did a 55m rap to the top of p2, then 2 bolted raps to the ground.

 

It's hard to get a view of the whole wall, but Hwy20 just above the hairpin gives an ok perspective.

 

Thanks a ton to the guys who established it.

 

Gear Notes:

Doubles to #2, with a 3 camalot. 2x 60m ropes to rappel

 

Approach Notes:

Park at mile post 166 and walk up the hill in or left of the creekbed.

[layton]

Awesome!!

 

[elaw]

Thanks for your TR Blake!

Grateful to hear your knowledge of the WA pass climbing many years ago on that hitchhike ride. We had no idea we were about to try a route on M&M Wall until you led us to that info in the Beckey Guide. It was only this big scary adventure to a cave in the middle of a big alpine wall. We finally had a name for it!

I am psyched to hear this route has seen some traffic. Your descriptions and length of pitches seem spot on. On our attempts, Arden linked pitch 3 and 4 to make a 55m pitch which felt like 11 for me personally. Top of P4 is a hanging belay with a pin and stopper. Hope to add belay bolts soon.

I especially appreciate the photo of the corner on P2, great perspective and great rock!

As you summed up, this route is no problem for the average 5.10 climber of which, I am a member.

Thank you for the clarity on the difficulty of each pitch. Arden had no problem sending these pitches, but this was a big step for my 1st ascent resume. Things are certainly more terrifying and exciting when you have no idea what lies ahead..

The headwall above P6 looks amazing, hope someone sends this rig by climbing the big corner high on the wall.

We climbed out left of the cave for a pitch of 5.11, then two short 5.8ish pitches up obvious corners to the top of the wall. from summit, hike the ledge system west to gully then down to packs.

Big Thanks to Jim L. and Mead H. who sent this wall forty years ago... Bold and inspirational.

Thanks again Blake!

 

 

 

[Buckaroo]

Dang it. If you guys keep adding stuff to my tick list I'm never gonna get it completed.

[tvashtarkatena]

Blake Herrington, ladies and gentlemen.

 

Bear n ice.

[leearden]

Thanks for the update Blake, I am pleased to hear of the wall getting some traffic, it definitely deserves the attention.

 

L and I are starting to consider getting back there this year, especially since hearing reports of new intro pitches that will surely make the approach easier, as well as making the descent quicker and safer. Thanks to whomever has taken the effort to upgrade the crag.

 

Anyone here know about new additions to m and m wall?

[Sol]

Blake, Jon Pobst, and myself went up and climbed the route to the summit on Monday. Awesome route, great find! The rock quality for the majority of the route is spectacular. We figured it was you guys putting in the bolted intro pitch... geuss not. Seems pretty contrived... but oh well it is quite a clean slab. Anybody else ever top this route out (hard to imagine this was the 2nd ascent..)?

[leearden]

Only erik and I, now you. As far as I know

[leearden]

Oh yeah, Jim Langdon and Mead Hargis topped it out and descended climbers right 43 years ago. One day, on site, via a different route.

[Sol]

SUPERCAVE Blogpost

[Sol]

Oh yeah, Jim Langdon and Mead Hargis topped it out and descended climbers right 43 years ago. One day, on site, via a different route.

 

5.8 A4 = HARDMEN