Suggestions for 4th/easy 5th class alpine ascents.

[khu]

Looking for some suggestions on alpine climbs around Washington, preferably granite or other solid rock, that are 4th class or easy 5th class for my wife and I to try. We climb sport a lot and aren't big trad climbers. I've got a full set of hex's, nuts and a billion slings. I'm looking for something that's more of a blocky scramble and not so much steep hanging belay type of climb. A short approach would be a plus too. Something to get us started in the alpine stuff.

 

Cheers,

 

Khu

[ajpederson]

South Arete on South Early Winter Spire 5.5

Beckey route on Liberty Bell 5.6

South Face on The Tooth 5.4

South Ridge on Ingalls Peak 5.4

NE Ridge of Black Peak 5.2

[G-spotter]

West ridge of North Twin Sister can be scrambled (Class 3) by moving around on ledges or low 5th class if climbed directly. Plus it's one of the most fun days you can have in the mts.

[CascadeClimber]

It fails the 'short approach' metric, but the West Ridge of Stuart offers a lot of Class 3 and 4 scrambling, leading to the West Ridge Notch, after which you get about 4 pitches of easy 5th to the summit. It's a long climb, especially if you start pitching it out before the notch.

 

The North Face of Vesper is fun.

West Ridge of Thompson.

The Improbable Traverse on Guye (not sure of the rating).

The scramble route up Cathedral Rock is fun. Probably not 5th though.

 

Ingalls is a long walk in for only two pitches. Pretty area, though.

[denalidave]

Don't forget the W Ridge of Prusik.

[kenp]

Mt. Forgotten, decent scramble with cool view.

[Alex]

West Ridge of Stuart.

 

Edit: ok, probably not the best route to "get started on the alpine stuff" as its a pretty long day (or two)... but still one of the best outings of its kind in the NW

Edited August 14, 2012 by Alex

[Jeff W]

Mt Shuksan via the Sulphide Glacier, while not a short approach, is a fantastic climb. The summit pyramid is the blocky scramble you noted. Nice setting in the North Cascades.

[JasonG]

Sharkfin Tower! Great rock, amazing position.

 

Ditto on the Sulphide, but finish with the SE ridge of the summit pyramid. It doesn't get much better than that for an easy alpine climb.

 

A bunch of other great suggestions already . . .

[khu]

Wow, thanks for the suggestions! Doing Adams this weekend (if the weather holds) and will try one of these, possibly, the next week.

 

The approach is not that critical. I don't mind walking, I've just never had a good system to haul my climbing gear. Picked up a mammut neon gear 45 at the REI garage!! So much better for hauling my stuff.

[Alex]

khu, if you can't fit everything incl climbing gear and overnight gear - pocket rocket, canister, titanium cup, ultra light bag, etc - into a 40L pack, you are taking too much crap.

My wife does overnight alpine trips with a 30L pack, incl climbing shoes, sleeping bag, bivy sack. Something to aim for....

 

 

[khu]

The only bag I had before was a mammut side rope bag, not the best for hiking. It was either that or a 70L backpacking pack, which was not efficient for climbing. This new 45L pack is full with 60m rope, draws, rack, slings two harnesses, and two pairs of shoes. I don't know what I could cut from that line-up and still climb...

 

Solo alpine stuff without a rack, sure I could easily get by on a 30L, but I got this pack for cragging and use on alpine approaches. I guarantee you could not get two individuals climbing gear and overnight gear into a 30L pack. On overnight mountaineering trips I use a 30L pack.

 

Wife will carry a very small overnight pack with food and gear for the night.

 

Edited August 15, 2012 by khu

[Alex]

so, if I undertand your situation correctly, in order to do this this stuff with your chosen partner, your wife, you're willing to carry the majority of the stuff? If so, Ok, disregard my comment. I was assuming a 50/50 split between two equal partners. If each partner is carrying 30-40L packs, thats how you get to what I was stating. Finally, rope is almost always outside he pack, not inside.

[khu]

With my wife, yes, I would carry the majority. With a friend it would be a split. The bag has a dedicated rope area, so carrying it inside is not a big deal. It has a rope loop on top, but I hate having stuff outside of packs. I probably just need to figure out the correct method for coiling and attaching it.