Peter_Puget Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 Forrest – Since the bolting question has been killed would you please provide the definitive answers to my three questions? I must have missed them while the debate raged! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 You are correct Forrest. I don't slander in all seriousness unless someone is really asking for it. Go climb your rock for all I care. I am in my world too, flailing on 510a. It's pulling on a piece of stone but yes it seems competitive. Of course when I hear people brag to me they lead solid 5.10 then well I usually expect them to lead a climb like Zcrack or Slow Children unless they mentioned they climb in the gym or on bolted routes. [true story] K is a fictional name. I took "K" out climbing earlier this year. It was our first outing. "k" told me he leads 5.11. "K" onsighted 5.11 at the Deception Crags. Then I take "K" to Little Si and say here is a 5.10a crack go for it. "K" aided the pitch by hanging on gear and pulling on it. Personally I thought the 5.10a was 5.9.. Have you ever heard of this situation? [/true story] It definitely does not take a work of genius to rock climb by any means crack or bolted. Although the bolted climbs are usually well spaced and anchors preplaced on good rock for most climbs. While some anchors on cracks could be rps to cams behind expanding flakes.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 I like cracks cause I can sew them up where as on some older "sport" climbs like at Smith, the bolts are further apart than mysafe dogging distance and if i want to hang I have to fall to do it!!! Whimper!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Although the bolted climbs are usually well spaced and anchors preplaced on good rock for most climbs. Like at Vantage?? Spokane limestone?? Mt Si?? There's good rock there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Dru: Like at Vantage?? Spokane limestone?? Mt Si?? There's good rock there? Sure is They smash away the loose shit with hammers many times or even glue the stuff back together like at Deception. I hear it wears the batteries out on a drill more at deception than on granite....... [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 10-04-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 I thought all the good rock at Deception had been carried up piece by piece from the riverbed and lovingly bolted/glued on?? PS Congrats on busting the 1200 mark Ray. [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 10-04-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 You should check out the far side then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 actually I have never been there just passing on 2ndhand slander. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 Dru - Haven't been to Canmore area for 5/6 years. Do you go there much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 I was there for 3 or 4 days in August. mostly i go there for the ice as, if i want to, i can climb loose rock without making the 10 hour drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 Actually, Si and 38 have far bettter rock than the crap at index or squamish. The granite might be solid, but the only way to get any decent moves on it is to put them there. At least with 38 and Si, the trad climbing is safe because the cracks are bolted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 That area just amazes me! It has so much rock. BTW germane to this thread didn't a pair of climbers fall to the ground off of one of those long "sport" routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: Actually, Si and 38 have far bettter rock than the crap at index or squamish. The granite might be solid, but the only way to get any decent moves on it is to put them there. At least with 38 and Si, the trad climbing is safe because the cracks are bolted. Matt I dont know what you mean? The rock at Index is superb and holds gear. Deception Crags is a roadblast. I once saw rocks rocket out of the sky down on the area before We Did Rock. Now tell me that aint choss dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: Actually, Si and 38 have far bettter rock than the crap at index or squamish. The granite might be solid, but the only way to get any decent moves on it is to put them there. At least with 38 and Si, the trad climbing is safe because the cracks are bolted. Hee hee. This fish ain't taking that hook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: That area just amazes me! It has so much rock. BTW germane to this thread didn't a pair of climbers fall to the ground off of one of those long "sport" routes? In Canmore, when?? The big issue on those lines is anonymous bolt removers taking a few bolts in a row off like the 8th or 9th pitch and sport climbers who can't hack the runout or place gear having to back off... not that i condone such actions but its kind of funny, "MOMMY there is 20 feet runout to the next bolt, we go home now!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 Not sure where I heard that. If I can remember I'll let you know. I have always been just driving thru Canmore area so never climbed the long sport routes myself but have bouldered and scoped out lots of stuff by that lake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 So is Swim at Index upper walls considered a sport route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 Well I guess not because one pitch isnt fixed. But assunming it was fixed would you say it was a sport route? What about the other bolted lines on the Upper Wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Well I guess not because one pitch isnt fixed. But assunming it was fixed would you say it was a sport route? What about the other bolted lines on the Upper Wall. I dunno I never did them. Too hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 Shit, is someone else using better lures in my fishing hole? "not that i condone such actions but its kind of funny, "MOMMY there is 20 feet runout to the next bolt, we go home now!" Have the fish gone fishin? "So is Swim at Index upper walls considered a sport route?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 hee hee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 Peter Puget: It seems one could asert (using logic) that if a climb is over 50% bolted it is sport climbing with intermitent trad. If the opposite were true, it would be trad with intermitent sport. Kind of like determining if bigfoot is a primate or human, but, different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 I just had to get public opinion matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 Bronco - Thanks for the help! So do you think that any route that uses only bolts for pro is a sport climb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted October 4, 2001 Share Posted October 4, 2001 I think if Bigfoot were a human he would definelty be a trad climber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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