dberdinka Posted June 30, 2012 Posted June 30, 2012 (edited) Trip: Twin Sisters Range - South Twin - North Twin Traverse Date: 6/28/2012 Trip Report: Due to a deteriorating forecast and a general weariness with driving long distances to go climbing I chose to hop on my bike and go for my first ever self-propelled climbing adventure. I managed to kill the proverbial second bird as well finally climbing the South Twin Sister after living in Bellingham for over twenty years. The original plan had been to just climb the West Ridge of the North Twin. After 30 miles of pedaling, and using some sort of flawed logic, I surmised that climbing the South Twin would only add a marginal amount of extra effort to the entire ordeal. After the interminable logging roads the approach into the basin separating the two peaks is short and sweet. A short snow slope led to the long West Ridge of the South Twin which struck me as a slightly longer, slightly more difficult and more alpine version of it neighbor. Occasional intimidating sections were always easily bypassed on firm, enjoyable rock. I was a bit surprised to find two climbers basking on the summit of the neighboring Skookum Peak having just climbed the Northeast Ridge (which looks like one of the very best routes in the range). Years ago when I climbed that peak the summit register suggested it only saw an ascent every five years or so. Rather than down climb the ridge I chose to descend the much shorter and chossier northeast ridge. Still third class but quite exposed in places. The Sisters Glacier was rapidly crossed to the col between the summits at which point I decided it would be just as easy to climb over the North Twin for a rapid boot glissade down the North Face (always perfect in mid-to-late June). The southeast ridge of the North Twin turned out to be a bit inferior to the other ridges in the area with numerous deep gaps to be bypassed and a finally bit of unaesthetic traversing below steep towers. It had it's enjoyable sections too and as part of the overall traverse it is well worth doing. Upon regaining my bike the weather had finally changed with a stiff wind and the first rain drops in the air. Fortunately my legs were not nearly as trashed as I had presumed they would be and the ride home was actually enjoyable. Ultimately a great trip and a wonderful way to reset the bar on what seems normal. That five mile approach up the logging roads will never feel long again! Approach Notes: Accessing the Basin. From near Dailey Prairie continue past the normal turn off for the N Twin - W Ridge. After a couple hundred yards take the next left. After passing an old metal culvert (BITD climbers could park here) the road brushes up. Continue to follow a path through the slide alder. Watch out for a point where the road splits in front of a small stream. A more obvious path leads up and left but you want to continue straight ahead over the stream. Eventually the road switchbacks just before reaching old growth. Plow straight ahead picking up a faint trail. It quickly leads to a talus field that is followed up into the basin. 45 minutes from the culvert. Edited June 30, 2012 by dberdinka Quote
JasonG Posted June 30, 2012 Posted June 30, 2012 Thanks for the report on the South Twin! It's now on the list, sounds great! And, those are some great images as well, love it. Quick question: In the second to last picture, is that the North Twin from the col, and did you climb up the ridge in the middle of the frame? Quote
Leland Posted June 30, 2012 Posted June 30, 2012 Wow! - and we thought we had a long day getting to and from Skookum. We were pretty surprised to hear a "helloooo!" from the South Twin - what are the chances?! Wasn't quick enough to snap a pic back of you. We were too busy grousing about the best way down. Quote
benny h Posted June 30, 2012 Posted June 30, 2012 Well done! Self propelled expedition. Great inspiration! Quote
dberdinka Posted June 30, 2012 Author Posted June 30, 2012 Quick question: In the second to last picture, is that the North Twin from the col, and did you climb up the ridge in the middle of the frame? Thats the backside of the South Twin. I downclimbed the ridgeline (NE ridge) in the middle of the frame. Leland, what did you think of the route on Skookum? Quote
Leland Posted July 1, 2012 Posted July 1, 2012 Skookum is a terrific climb but has an unfortunately long and yucky approach. A little bit of loose stuff here and there, but mostly solid and protectable rock. Lots of variations possible to add some extra spice. We will put up a TR this week with plenty of praise and whining for this route. P.S. Just wondering how long that romp took you Bham-to-Bham? Quote
Matt_Alford Posted July 2, 2012 Posted July 2, 2012 Nice D! Another classy adventure in good style! Cheers, Matt Quote
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