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Posted

Hey kids,

 

Fully auto crampons for alpine ice - need to get some boots for the summer alpine ice / approach, but can't find a boot I like that will work with my G14s. Nepals are way too warm.

 

Suggestions? Leather/Synth is fine, nepals fit me perfectly shape-wise. Can't find anything with the front welt that isn't insulated.

 

Should I just give in and get some new crampons for ice with the rubber toe strap instead?

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Posted
LS Makalu? Not sure how similar the last is to the Nepals. My feet don't like em.

 

Huh. Didn't notice these guys. Thanks for the suggestion - little on the heavy side.

Posted

You might just want to go with some G12s with a plastic front piece and a pair of the red Trangos or Scarpa Charmoz. Get yourself a warmer pair of boots for winter climbing with the G12s or your G14s. Pretty much all you need for 98% of climbing in the cascades.

Posted
You might just want to go with some G12s with a plastic front piece and a pair of the red Trangos or Scarpa Charmoz. Get yourself a warmer pair of boots for winter climbing with the G12s or your G14s. Pretty much all you need for 98% of climbing in the cascades.

 

Yeah, thought about that. I'm already set for summer/winter in the Sierras and Cascades. I just need some summer boots for down Sierra-way - my current gen mountaineering cramps probably won't cut it for alpine ice - G12s would do, just didn't want to drop a lot of cash on boots and another set of cramps if I didn't have to. Probably makes sense, get a better and lighter boot without the front welt - grab a pair of G12s - they climb alpine ice pretty well.

Posted

I haven't used them but suspect that the Asolo Nanga GV might work very well. I own the non-welted Sherpa GV and found them to be exceptionally comfortable out of the box and very durable.

 

GB

Posted

see if you can scare up some LS Nepal Tops (same boot as the Nepal Extreme, but uninsulated).

 

http://www.lasportiva.com/mountain.html?&L=1&tt_products%5Bproduct%5D=30&cHash=3276c2bed17cc9007635f12c1f370609

 

 

 

 

they used to be widely available here (I had a pair - fantastic boots), but I think now only orderalble from Europe

 

you might also try the LS Karakoram Pro

 

http://www.lasportiva.com/mountain.html?&L=1&tt_products%5Bproduct%5D=35&cHash=a8c535a2358120c0cec26b6b048c27ca

 

The Makalu is a snow-trudging and step kicking boot - heavy and not very technical. I had a pair, but the nepal tops are a much better boot in all aspects.

 

The Scarpa Mont Blanc is insulated - people report them to be as warm as the Nepal Extreme

Posted

Great suggestions, ECB - I think the weight of those boots would be an issue, I'd like something a little lighter if I can get it. Appears front welt = same weight as my Nepals. Still leaning towards a light boot/another set of crampons.

Posted

Mt. Blanc is as insulated as Nepal.

 

Actually, can't think of a boot with front toe-welt that isn't insulated.

 

Pretty much everything meant for alpine rock has a flush toe box and sole for better edging performance.

 

See if you can scare up some of the new Petzl rubber toe bails that slot into full-auto crampons.

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