Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  

[TR] Karwendel Mountains, Austria - Herzschlag der Leidenschaft (Heartbeat of Passion) 6/16/2012

Recommended Posts

Trip: Karwendel Mountains, Austria - Herzschlag der Leidenschaft (Heartbeat of Passion)


Date: 6/16/2012


Trip Report:

Hi all, some of youse may remember me from the old days! I try to come around when I know of something interesting for yall, and I think I have something. If not this particular climb then recognize that there are a dozen like it.


"Herzschlag der Leidenschaft" is a massive "sport alpine" climb, rated at 5.12a if you do it all free. For mortals like me, it goes at solid 5.10 with A0. The coolest thing is the length: 32 bitchin' pitches! The vertical gain is 1200 meters, and the climbing length is 1700 meters, thanks to some long traverses mid-height.




I was thinking of it as a bigger cousin to Mt. Garfield's big sport climb. The lower 16 pitches are "approach," and the real hairy stuff is in the upper half.


Fitted out like lycra-clad sport climbers, we weren't ready for the truly hairy moat to start things off. Here I am carving pitiful steps with rocks, weeping about the 60 foot drop into blackness just right of my tender tennis-shoed feet:




But finally we started. I'm old, and barely skilled, so I got the loose crappy block. But there were 3-4 excellent pitches and some always satisfying simul-climbing in coils like you see in old films.






But for young turks, the fun begins with a 5.10c rightward traverse:




then a 4 pitch leftward traverse! Barely gaining elevation! Check out the ominous "bivouac holes" above my buddy Georg's head.




Oh yeah. We're in Austria...here is what the countryside looks like from mid-height:




Here the climbing is so exposed and very good:




We go straight up beyond Georg:




Yeah, I'm in A0 land for a while!




I redeem myself with some scrappy 5.8 pitches, where the bolts ran out and I used all our cams in the chimney above my head. Higher, you can see an amazing lieback crack (5.11a/b) that we don't have pictures of.




A bit more short roping, to reach the upper headwall and the last 3 pitches:




On the way down we can see the wall, moving like a ghost ship through the green sea:




We walked right into a restaurant below the wall. Characteristically American, I order the fries:




Anyway, there do seem to be at least 10 routes like this with more than 30 pitches in the area. One of them, "Ende Nie" (Never-ending) is 38 pitches, rated 5.10b. Sure, there is some loose stuff along the way, but the ratios are pretty good. For this one, I added up 630 meters of 3rd/4th class, 600 meters of mid-5th, and 470 meters of 5.10a and above. Mebbe you guys want to come out this way. Austria seems to be completely ignored as a climbing destination. I never saw an American over here! Something to do for Oktoberfest anyway.


So that is the news from here. Take care and have a great summer cc.com!


Gear Notes:

Double 60 meter ropes, 12 quickdraws, 4-5 cams and 6 nuts.


Approach Notes:

Literally 5 minutes from the car. The descent is a hiking trail down (about two hours)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats where I'm from...

We have many many bolted multi pitch routs in Tirol and Salzburg. There are often Alpenverein huts close by where you can stay for cheap.

Oh how I miss that sometimes...

Edited by trese

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Har! I guess the idyllic valley rang with the sound of a drill. But to haul the batteries up 1000 meters? Jeez.


I don't know if it's a very recent thing, but I think it's been in the last 5 years that these 30+ pitch routes have been established. They usually demand an "alpine head," with sparse protection on easy pitches, but then they relent and bolt like crazy when the climbing is say 5.10b and above. If I get some time I'll try to make a list. I know I really enjoy the long climbs so for me this stuff is amazing.


BTW, I was reminded of Washington on pitch 12 or so...I had to climb through the remains of a goat, ugh, maybe he fell in the spring. I remembered the sad-eyed goats near Prusik Peak and Snow Creek Wall with their bald patches. Sniff. I'd give an eyetooth (whatever that is) for a good day on ol' Outer Space!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sweet! I need to head to Europe, though I may wait for implosion of the euro.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

32 pitches - that looks like some fun! Nice TR Michael. cheers.




"If I get some time I'll try to make a list. "

I'd love to see that list.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

This long multi pitch bolted routes are not a very recent thing although every year new routes are established - for example the Ende Nie was established over 10 years ago.

The Herzschlag der Leidenschaft was esablished 2 years ago.

A great resource for routes in Austria is the following page (in German... click below Touren on Klettern - longer routes or Klettersteige - via ferrata or Klettergaerten - climbing crags - usually bolted): http://bergsteigen.at/de/default.aspx

Edited by trese

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Trese, I didn't really realize how prevalent such monsters were. I did another > 20 pitch one two years ago, called "Via Aqua" in the Wilder Kaiser (UIAA VII-). Looking forward to getting slayed by "Ende Nie" one day! :)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this