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escapetherock

[TR] MRNP - Gib ledges/ DC 5/27/2012

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Trip: MRNP - Gib ledges/ DC

 

Date: 5/27/2012

 

Trip Report:

Sorry I don't have any pictures of the route- my helmet cam died on me and I was too busy clutching my tools during the ascent. We headed up to Muir on the 27th, camped at 8800 due to poor vis and running late. Skinned up to Muir Sat to great weather, clear skies. Left Muir at 0200 Sunday morning, great cramponing up to the start of the ledges. Began the ledges as the sun began to creep over the horizon. It was nice to have a bit of light for route finding. What stuck me was how loose the snow seemed, esp compared to what we had encountered on the approach. It seems a lot of the snow on the route is deposited from falling from above- it had not consolidated well- seemed to be crunchy and crumbly on top of good stuff. This slowed us down on some of the more exposed sections as we had to side climb with two tools more than anything else. When we got to the gulley- the sun had come up and really started to rain down chunks of ice and rocks on us. Luckily the gulley was somewhat protected. However, we found the gulley heavily crevassed so we set up an ice screw anchor, and my partner had to climb left over the glacier to circumvent the gulley. Finally arriving at the top, we traversed a long time, finally hooking up with the DC route. The snow was really soft, and having encountered multiple hidden crevasses, we opted to descend. We found the DC route super slushy at the bottome, with 4 inches of water snow on top of hard pack. It made downclimbing difficult- feet kept sliding in the soft stuff and not getting purchase inthe hard stuff underneath. It was 1030- seems that is a bit late to be on the DC route. Lots of open crevasses seen, as well as a slide on the Ing Direct, near where last year's big slide happened.

 

Approach- skis to Muir, cramps the rest of the way. Good hard pack to the entrance of the ledges.

Gear- axe, tool, 3 pickets, 2 screws, 30 m rope, helmets, aluminum cramps.

Edited by escapetherock

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This makes the route sound kinda nasty. I'm wondering how it will be this weekend. I guess I'm gonna find out.

 

 

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Nice TR guys. Crazy to hear of the crevasses in the gulley. I've never seen that before, at least not this early.

 

Getting a jump on the Memorial Day weekend I see: Date: 5/27/2012

 

Futuristic climbing is the new pink.

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Here's what the park service sees. You can clearly see the big chunk of broken up ice at the top of the chute. Is it also just me but is the rock melted out over into the chute more than usual? Also, doesn't it look like you could traverse under that breakup to climbers left and then navigate above the hanging ice wall? Anyhoo... nice pic from the NPS from 5/1:

 

May+01,+2012-01-7.jpg

 

 

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Way cool pic. Yeah, we had to traverse along rocks towards the end of the ledges- then you had to go climbers left for a rope length- below the serac looking thingie above the chute. We cut right below that feature, across what felt like a hollow snow bridge. (running belay there) Once across, 3 easy rope lengths to the top.

Edited by escapetherock

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