Cpt.Caveman Posted December 12, 2001 Share Posted December 12, 2001 Might want to get more feedback. SOmeone here asked me recently if I wanted to do it like this past saturday. THey might have already done some....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted December 12, 2001 Share Posted December 12, 2001 "From the input I am receiveing looks like a spring RETROFIX party at the Coulee is on. More details to follow." I'll be there (I should have made the move back to WA then). Keep me/everyone posted and let me know if you want any help getting this going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted December 17, 2001 Share Posted December 17, 2001 [ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: LUCKY ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted January 19, 2002 Share Posted January 19, 2002 [ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: LUCKY ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted January 19, 2002 Author Share Posted January 19, 2002 There are more routes that were stripped- the 2 sport routes to the right of party in your pants just to name a couple. Also, I replaced 3 sets of anchors with hangers, slings, and rings- when I went back last weekend, someone had taken the slings and rings. I may have a suspect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted January 19, 2002 Share Posted January 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Charlie: There are more routes that were stripped- the 2 sport routes to the right of party in your pants just to name a couple. Also, I replaced 3 sets of anchors with hangers, slings, and rings- when I went back last weekend, someone had taken the slings and rings. I may have a suspect. What's the deal here? Sounds like we're not fortunate enough to be dealing with someone who has to fit a long commute and/or a job into his regular hardware-theft schedule. Hopefully this sort of thing will let up as the weather warms and the crowds become more consistent over there.Hopefully by modifying the hardware and making this fellows by-now-well-honed theft process a bit more inconvenient and/or time consuming, and or replacing the hangers frequently enough to render his effort futile, we'll persuade this fellow to ply his trade elsewhere (Boulder )and keep the place safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted February 3, 2002 Share Posted February 3, 2002 [ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: LUCKY ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 3, 2002 Share Posted February 3, 2002 lucky when you say chopped i believe you are implying just that....out there today and these routes are not chopped, but only hangerless.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted February 4, 2002 Share Posted February 4, 2002 [ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: LUCKY ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 4, 2002 Share Posted February 4, 2002 as unfortunate as the situation is over there, the one thing that gets me is why would someone whom is soo supset over the current theft situation create a bigger problem by naming people with little to no evidence.(and if you have evidence please share) cause all the graffiti that has been spread over the area is probably a bigger problem then any good it might do........ i have climbed at vantage my entire climbing carrer, never thought it was the best but not the worst either......i think i have even been involved in some of the route creations..... but the trhing that gets me even more is the amount of development that goes on down there....... how many routes should be established??? and why that many???? maybe instead of looking into the problem from only one perspective is blinding everyone from the complete truth.....bloting issures do not have one side or another cause both points are typically valid.....but is the message that this person sends clear and heard by all?? or is it a power struggle between few involving all??? i dont think removing fixed gear is a crime, but niether is putting thousands of bolts into less the quality rock isnt either...... replace and fix the anchors and leave the rest of the crap alone until a permanet thoughtout non-slanderous soluion can be found...... repalcing the bolts over and over and over again only gives the bolt thief the reactions she/she/they want.....especailly if it is not your named suspect..... everyone should leave vantage alone NO NEW ROUTES......for the glory of mother earth!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: repalcing the bolts over and over and over again only gives the bolt thief the reactions she/she/they want!!... It seems to me like leaving the routes hangerless and unclimbable, rather than replacing the hangers, would be giving this individual exactly what they want - which is why I'll pitch in and contribute whatever I can to their restoration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 [ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: LUCKY ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 i didnt say never fix them, just not until there is a solution. i think that leaving the routes hangerless atleast quites it down for a bit. my main concern is damgine access over the lonf run.....grafiti and other types of vandalism are jsut as bad as stealing hangers.....cept that the public has little to no idea about the hangers they do reconize graffiti...... is mother nature had inteded alot of the routes out there to be climbed they would have to trundle shit off of those faces day in and day out........ we dont have to climb every piece of rock let alone bolt it.... another question that i know mttp and i have discussed....is who is going to maintain all these bolts...????? and another question what kind of traffic does a climb have to get for it to be considered a worth while effort in cleaning and bolting???? alot of the route further down only get mild traffic compared to the rest of the area... i am not trying to get down on the route developers, i hst think there is a point where enough is enough.....and i think vantage has had enough.......maybe this person stealing the hangers is a messenger....?????? NO MORE NEW ROUTES IN VANTAGE......for the sake of Mother Earth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 lucky we do know each other.....i climb with wallstein alot...... i have read into what you are saying, but read into what i am saying...... and i am not singling you out on anything......your final post just finally got me to say something....and i actually have quite a bit to say on it.... sunshine is entertaining place to climb, but is the rest of the area comparable???? for the most part no...but there are good lines out there..it is the rampart and excessive bolting that i think had brought all this on.....there was no problem in recent history(and yesi have heard about the previous incidents) until the new wave of route development went on.........so why nnow and not then.????? either way i am going home NO NEW ROUTES AT VANTAGE.....for the sake of Mother Earth!!! p.s. i am still an conservative Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 [ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: LUCKY ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 YOu guys all need a fatty. Hey Lucky we still on for Tumwater? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 Yea cavey tum tower sounds good soon as the weathers good. [ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: LUCKY ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: p.s. i am still an conservative Yeah he is! He refused to have anything to do with that controversial Whipsaw climb! [which still has it's hangers by the way.] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 A few suggestions for retrofitting Vantage: Use stainless steel "U" type bolts and glue them in. It will be very difficult to hacksaw (and time consuming so you might catch the culprit) through two half inch bars on rappel. Also, (if the rock quality is not too poor) put the anchors below the top of the crag so it's not as easy to rappel in to do these dirty deeds. And the mother earth B.S. is getting soo old. Climbers account for such a small amount of impact in comparison to other earth "user groups". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 Mike A. lost friends on this board . Wallstein head was on the chopping block for fixing a bolt ladder . What the hell was I thinking getting mixed up in this . From now on everything is clandestine. Save Mother Earth commit suicide LATER DUDE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 Kill yourself everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted February 5, 2002 Share Posted February 5, 2002 cavey you have the solution We are still on for tum tower [ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: LUCKY ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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