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Nailing Routes


TimL

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Can anyone steer me towards some moderate established A1-A2+ nailing routes in WA or just a good area of choss to whack in a couple pins or paste some heads?

I was thinking Snow White to the left of Princly Ambitions at Index might prove to be an interesting adventure. Has anyone done this route or know the pin selection needed?

I think the 2nd pitch of Stern Farmer has a short section of nailing but it is guarded by a large wasp nest.

[This message has been edited by TimL (edited 10-11-2001).]

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Snow White is not A1 nailing, it would be pretty sandbaggy to call it A2+ I think, since the tough moves are all knifeblade close to the deck. If you want to try it, it is knifeblades and bugaboos up the seam until the lip. Then it eases off, I think you get an alien.

A1 nailing? Isnt that C1? wink.gif

A2+ nailing, a long time ago I would have told you the original start to (Ten Percent?), just right of Saggitarius, because it involved a few tied off LAs, but I've since been reprimanded that its a clean route and goes fine with Lowe Balls.

Stern Farmer is C3?

I think Golden Arch still has some official nailing on it?

There are quite a few spots on the Upper Town wall that you could practice. There is a nice A4 copperhead seam to the immediate left of Danas Arch that you can TR from Danas Arch if you want to learn how to X and paste heads.

when I want to go practice, I go into the big talus jumble below lower town wall and smack some pins around, or go Gardening on the Inner Wall or Lower Lump.

Alex

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I don't see how you can use the words "nice", "A4" and "copperheads" all in the same sentence. Really though, thanks for the beta. I have 4 knife blades, 4 angles , 2 lost arrows, 1 bird beak selection of cam and regular hooks, RPs and TCU's. Do you think that would be enough heavy metal for Snow White?

Thanks.

[This message has been edited by TimL (edited 10-11-2001).]

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Dru, you are right, knifeblade cracks can be A1, but Snow White is really not A1, this is mostly body-weight/ half-driven/ tied off type knifeblades above a terrible landing.

TimL, I am not sure, its been about 5 years. the angles and LAs wont be used at all on Snow White.

I actually like A4/copperhead/nice, when on TR!! (of course, then its not A4 anymore, is it?) I suppose if you were hard core you could take a hand drill and bat hook it up to a big #3 camalot placement, but its a nice 60 foot groundfall if you blow it.

Alex

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quote:

I think Golden Arch still has some official nailing on it?


Golden Arch has been climbed all clean at new wave C3 . To do this requires lots of small (#0-2) RPs and offsets plus all the clean tricks like cam hooks, lowe balls and big ones. Nailing is much easier, more fun and less scary.

 

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