Gregory.S. Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I have an REI credit and they have the 20% sale going on so I am looking to buy my first pair of actual mountaineering boots (backpacking boots up until now). I have gone into REI and the two boots at my closest store that I feel are good options are the LOWA mountain expert GTX and the Scarpa Charmox GTX. I have spent a lot of time wearing the LOWA's and would prefer them because of their insulation (want to use them for baker, rainier (multiple trips), shuksan, etc. The LOWA's mostly fit but seem a little tight around the front of my feet (right before my toes). It is more of a light pressure but it is obviously pressing against that part of my foot more than any other. I had planned on just buying the LOWA's until I realized this is a problem as the largest size they carry (13) would not comfortable allow me to wear a liner and wool sock. Any thoughts, feelings about the SCARPA's and LOWA's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory.S. Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 or advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADKMan Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 One thing that I have always found to be true, if the boots don't fit near perfectly out of the box it is not likely to get better. I would strongly suggest to search for a pair of boots that fit really well. A good shop / bootfitter should be able to help fine tune with foot beds and lacing techniques. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A. Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 The three most important things to look for in a boot are fit, fit, and fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory.S. Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 (edited) Yeah, looks like I will be moving on from the mountain experts. It is too bad because I really liked them. It almost fits, it is just barely too narrow on the sides of my feet near my toes. Not uncomfortable but some pressure when I wear liner socks + wool. Edited March 29, 2012 by Gregory.S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 Hi Greg: I have a pair of Charmoz that I really like for everything except snow climbs and would suggest you consider a full leather Scarpa for snow/glacier routes. They will outlast the Charmoz which have had some durability issues. I also have a pair of old Scarpa Matterhorn (full leather) boots that were my first pair of real mountaineering boots. They are bomber and still going strong after many glacier and snow climbs. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Miller Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 Greg, I know that they're not available at REI, but perhaps take a close look at the Scarpa Triolet Pro GTX. They're a leather upper mountain boot that has served me well for a little less than a year now. They're reportedly available in a size 48 (USA size 14). Jim Nelson at Pro Mountain Sports is offering that boot at present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Water Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 gregory S., The Mountain Experts are EXCELLENT boots I've used for the past 3 years and probably 700 miles on them all told. BUT..yes spend the time to figure your boots out. The advice that if they don't feel good to begin with is really stellar. Anytime I've bought a boot, hiking, mountaineering, skiing, etc..I spend a long time and try a lot of options, will temporarily have a huge credit card bill from Zappos if I have to... but I've really never had a blister, this includes 1500miles on the appy trail and maybe 1500 miles since I've lived out here. And I have a total swamp foot..hell my feet sweat when I wear sandles--but a good boot fit and liner sock negates the blister causing friction. good luck, keep trying boots on. I too am a fan of trying to use any of that REI dividend/coupon/etc...if you think you have a good fit from there the plus side is you can return the boot to them if it doesn't work for you. They purvey this idea even when I've been trying on boots there in the past. But if they have nothing that fits and feels 'great' you should go to other stores and try other stuff on, really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowlab03 Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 I've got the Triolet Pro's and love them. I was really hoping to get a pair of La Sportivas and was in the same boat as you, REI bonus plus 20% off. I went in to try out the Sportivas, but the toe box was to narrow for me. I tried on the Scarpa's and they fit perfectly but I wanted a little more boot than the Charmoz. I ended up ordering the Triolet's from Backcountry and am very pleased. I wish I would have know about some of the local gear dealers in WA though as I would rather support them then order stuff online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory.S. Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 I know that the Charmoz are not the first choice for mountains like baker, shuksan, rainier, etc. but In many of the positive reviews I found people saying that is exactly what they used them for. I am going up baker the end of may and just bought the Charmoz from REI, should I reconsider this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory.S. Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 It is possible I could try and swing the Scarpa Mont Blanc, looking into that right now. Any opinion about the Mont Blanc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanO Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 (edited) Hi Gregory, I first bought the Charmoz because the Scarpas fit a wider foot like mine. The Lowas, La Sportivas, etc. wouldn't fit. Went on a few glacier climbs and realized that they didn't provide enough insulation -- I got cold toes. So, I upgraded to the Mont Blanc and have been quite happy since then. I also bought them with the 20% discount and my dividend last year. After the discount and everything, it's easier to justify. You won't know if the Charmoz are good enough for you until you get on the hill. For me, they weren't, but your mileage may vary. I personally would never wear a non-insulated boot like the Charmoz on a volcano, just because you never know when bad weather could move in. Some people's opinions here may differ, however. Edited April 3, 2012 by whitenoise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory.S. Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 Thank you very much for the helpful response! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Those Mont Blanc look like a newer version the Scparpa Matterhorn and probably a great general mountaineering boot. If you do go with a full leather boot, don't forget to start breaking them in as soon as you get them. I beleive the only downside to the full leather and stiffer shank is the prolonged break-in as compared to a synthetic boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Those Mont Blanc look like a newer version the Scparpa Matterhorn and probably a great general mountaineering boot. I believe the Mont Blanc replaced the Summit/Cumbre of which I have a pair. The Summits are a great all around alpine/mountaineering/ice climbing boot. Sumamits are not quite as burly as the LS Nepal Evo, the Mont Blanc appears to be a bit beefier than the Summits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Water Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 a friend had the mont blanc boots and they looked pretty burly, reminded me of my lowa mnt experts kinda. That said they didnt fit his foot worth a darned and he got hambergered on the shins and heels after a pretty minimal climb in the snow. Then again there is a lot you can do with insoles, lacing, and socks to help mitigate if you have a generally good fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory.S. Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 From what I could find the Summit is a tad heavier than the Mont Blanc. I sold a couple things and ordered the Mont Blancs, theyre on their way! I hope to climb baker in 8 weeks so well see how it goes.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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