telemarker Posted March 5, 2012 Posted March 5, 2012 Trip: Rat Creek: Dragon's Teeth - Some Ice Route... Date: 3/4/2012 Trip Report: Dragon's Teeth captures your attention as you look up Rat Creek from Icicle Road as it looms over the head of Rat. I'm not even sure it's called Dragon's Teeth. Maybe Slaphappy can chime in. I think Gyselink climbed this a few summers ago. Anyway, every winter I've seen ice form at its base, and sticks around well into spring. It's usually thick and blue. A few years ago Kyle Flick, Tom Janisch and I skied up Rat Creek and descended the CMC on Cannon. On the way by, I took photos of the ice, hoping to get back there at some point. So, that some point was today with Flick. The approach up Rat sucks as usual, but really not too bad with decent coverage. The sun warmed east slopes of Rat Creek were putting on a thunderous show for us on the way up to the ice, as the sun quickly warmed the new snow that accumulated over the past few days. What's cool about this ice, is that there's a two pitch route that stays hidden until almost just below it. We climbed this route in two, 60m pitches of WI3, then v-threaded back to the skis. I'd like to say that the skiing was variable, thereby leaving the impression that part of it was good. But really, it was crap for 90% of the descent with breakable crust and mush with a thin layer of crust on top. Unique location, and really solid and thick ice. We were glad we went, but a return trip is highly unlikely. Dragon's Teeth (I think) with the thick ice seepage: Closer Look. We climbed the flow on the left. Camera distortion makes it looks steeper than it really is: Kyle starting up on the first pitch, with the overhanging wall looming above: Kyle following the second pitch: The Un-payoff. Skiing crust with very tiny bits of powder: Just get us back to the car, please. At least when we fell, we were dumping vertical: Quote
telemarker Posted March 5, 2012 Author Posted March 5, 2012 Thanks! Here are some details I left should there be any masochist out there loves long, strenuous approaches to not enough climbing: Total mileage from Icicle Rd. to the ice is 2.8 miles, with about 4,500' elevation gain. We passed right under Rat Creek Dome. In the drainage, we ascended high on the left side of Rat Creek, and this worked well to avoid a lot of the downfall, alder and thinly veiled boulders. On the descent, just try to stay out of the creek area itself. There's no "right" way down this thing. A good option for descent if you have time and energy is to ascend to Coney Lake, clmib the ridge to the West, and descend the west slopes of cannon, or the cannon mountain couloir. Quote
jordansahls Posted March 5, 2012 Posted March 5, 2012 Awesome climb, really crappy ski. I can remember falling down that whole drainage from mesa lake. God, that sucked. I hope it went better for you than me. Quote
Sol Posted March 6, 2012 Posted March 6, 2012 Sweet outing guys! That overhanging rock looks pretty damn futuristic for Ltown... a bit enticing. Quote
telemarker Posted March 6, 2012 Author Posted March 6, 2012 Sweet outing guys! That overhanging rock looks pretty damn futuristic for Ltown... a bit enticing. It's got your name written all over it Sol! Quote
Buckaroo Posted March 6, 2012 Posted March 6, 2012 if I had hiked that far , would have got in a little TR action Quote
telemarker Posted March 6, 2012 Author Posted March 6, 2012 if I had hiked that far , would have got in a little TR action Well, when you're ancient like Kyle and me, you're lucky to even reach the ice, and overjoyed to actually climb two pitches. Icing on the frozen cake! Quote
cfire Posted March 7, 2012 Posted March 7, 2012 Way to get after it guys. That approach and deproach looks fun...thanks for not calling!! Quote
murse11 Posted March 7, 2012 Posted March 7, 2012 Looks rad! I've noticed that wall from the Icicle road a few times, often wondered if there was anything being done or had been done up there. Supposed to head up Rat creek saturday, hopefully the snow improves! Quote
telemarker Posted March 7, 2012 Author Posted March 7, 2012 Looks rad! I've noticed that wall from the Icicle road a few times, often wondered if there was anything being done or had been done up there. Supposed to head up Rat creek saturday, hopefully the snow improves! Man, it will have to be a pretty significant dumping of snow for it to be enjoyable, especially on the lower past. From about the 4,500' level and higher, the snow coverage is much better, though very sun crusted. Are you going to Coney Lake or Cannon? Quote
telemarker Posted March 7, 2012 Author Posted March 7, 2012 Way to get after it guys. That approach and deproach looks fun...thanks for not calling!! I thought you were in Canada! Well, maybe we can plan a schwack up Hook Creek soon? Quote
danhelmstadter Posted March 7, 2012 Posted March 7, 2012 awesome, i love the skin track climbing shot. Quote
telemarker Posted March 8, 2012 Author Posted March 8, 2012 awesome, i love the skin track climbing shot. Thanks Dan! Not the most aesthetic skin track ever...It was a, "do whatever it takes to finish this endless ascent" kind of track. Quote
murse11 Posted March 11, 2012 Posted March 11, 2012 Looks rad! I've noticed that wall from the Icicle road a few times, often wondered if there was anything being done or had been done up there. Supposed to head up Rat creek saturday, hopefully the snow improves! Man, it will have to be a pretty significant dumping of snow for it to be enjoyable, especially on the lower past. From about the 4,500' level and higher, the snow coverage is much better, though very sun crusted. Are you going to Coney Lake or Cannon? The bottom part was a junk-show for me, but as predicted, improved greatly at 4500. Snow was pretty soft the whole way up due to the warm weather we've been having. Quote
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