Jump to content

[TR] Rat Creek: Dragon's Teeth - Some Ice Route... 3/4/2012


telemarker

Recommended Posts

Trip: Rat Creek: Dragon's Teeth - Some Ice Route...

 

Date: 3/4/2012

 

Trip Report:

Dragon's Teeth captures your attention as you look up Rat Creek from Icicle Road as it looms over the head of Rat. I'm not even sure it's called Dragon's Teeth. Maybe Slaphappy can chime in. I think Gyselink climbed this a few summers ago.

 

Anyway, every winter I've seen ice form at its base, and sticks around well into spring. It's usually thick and blue. A few years ago Kyle Flick, Tom Janisch and I skied up Rat Creek and descended the CMC on Cannon. On the way by, I took photos of the ice, hoping to get back there at some point.

 

So, that some point was today with Flick. The approach up Rat sucks as usual, but really not too bad with decent coverage. The sun warmed east slopes of Rat Creek were putting on a thunderous show for us on the way up to the ice, as the sun quickly warmed the new snow that accumulated over the past few days.

 

What's cool about this ice, is that there's a two pitch route that stays hidden until almost just below it. We climbed this route in two, 60m pitches of WI3, then v-threaded back to the skis.

 

I'd like to say that the skiing was variable, thereby leaving the impression that part of it was good. But really, it was crap for 90% of the descent with breakable crust and mush with a thin layer of crust on top.

 

Unique location, and really solid and thick ice. We were glad we went, but a return trip is highly unlikely.

 

Dragon's Teeth (I think) with the thick ice seepage:

dt11.jpg

 

Closer Look. We climbed the flow on the left. Camera distortion makes it looks steeper than it really is:

dt21.jpg

 

Kyle starting up on the first pitch, with the overhanging wall looming above:

dt3.jpg

 

dt4.jpg

 

Kyle following the second pitch:

dt5.jpg

 

The Un-payoff. Skiing crust with very tiny bits of powder:

dt7.jpg

 

Just get us back to the car, please. At least when we fell, we were dumping vertical:

dt8.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 19
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks!

 

Here are some details I left should there be any masochist out there loves long, strenuous approaches to not enough climbing:

 

Total mileage from Icicle Rd. to the ice is 2.8 miles, with about 4,500' elevation gain. We passed right under Rat Creek Dome. In the drainage, we ascended high on the left side of Rat Creek, and this worked well to avoid a lot of the downfall, alder and thinly veiled boulders. On the descent, just try to stay out of the creek area itself. There's no "right" way down this thing.

 

A good option for descent if you have time and energy is to ascend to Coney Lake, clmib the ridge to the West, and descend the west slopes of cannon, or the cannon mountain couloir.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks rad! I've noticed that wall from the Icicle road a few times, often wondered if there was anything being done or had been done up there. Supposed to head up Rat creek saturday, hopefully the snow improves!

 

Man, it will have to be a pretty significant dumping of snow for it to be enjoyable, especially on the lower past. From about the 4,500' level and higher, the snow coverage is much better, though very sun crusted. Are you going to Coney Lake or Cannon?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks rad! I've noticed that wall from the Icicle road a few times, often wondered if there was anything being done or had been done up there. Supposed to head up Rat creek saturday, hopefully the snow improves!

 

Man, it will have to be a pretty significant dumping of snow for it to be enjoyable, especially on the lower past. From about the 4,500' level and higher, the snow coverage is much better, though very sun crusted. Are you going to Coney Lake or Cannon?

 

The bottom part was a junk-show for me, but as predicted, improved greatly at 4500. Snow was pretty soft the whole way up due to the warm weather we've been having.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...