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Posted

Howdy

 

Looking at the weather report for La Montagne, as I do almost obsessively, I see it's gonna be pretty frackin cold this weekend. Depending on how avy hazard looks for Monday, I was thinking about heading up for a Reid a/o Leutholds.. with an ambient temperature of 0-5F, and possibly into the -teens or -twenties with WCI, that'll be the coldest temps I've yet climbed in.

 

So far this winter I've climbed in temps averaging around 15-20, with WCI coming in anywhere from 10 down to negative teens, and have climbed in my shell pants and shell jacket with nothing more than socks and a UA compression shirt (free-balling- no lower base) underneath... it's cold, but despite being in very good physical condition, I sweat like a mu'fucker- I have to climb cold or I sweat off all my water. With the kind of temps they're predicting for Mon, I really don't think I'm gonna be able to get away with that.

 

What do you wear climbing in extra cold (relative to low-alt cascade climbing) temps? Just looking for a comparative starting point.. Once the gaiters and pons are on, I'm committed.

 

Thanks

 

-Ben

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Posted (edited)

yo Ben, been on that side during one of our arctic air masses, sunny, windy, and 8 degrees ambient.

I had long underwear, softshells, then my hardshell pants. on top I had tshirt, long sleeve heavy wool shirt, then a montbell tec-down puffy, then a hard shell, i think.

 

Sure I sweated when I was working hard but at those temps I did not find my down wetting out at all really or freezing in my armpits/etc--it was fine and i would get cold if i stopped.

 

if i had to do again i'd probably get by with long underwear, softshells, have hardshell along in case but 2 layers for legs is enough for most. up top i'd do long sleeve base wool, nano puff pullover, then my heavy-softshell that blocks the wind as well as hardshell may.

 

EDIT: I'd also have on compression shorts. This time of year that side of mnt with weather forecast I'd also have along my EB peak xv uberdoober down jacket and a sitpad. could probably substitute a 30degree 2-2.5lb sleeping bag for the uber down. between pack and sitpad you get enough insulative coverage from snow i like one big thing to keep me warm (bag or monster parka). stove too. i just go conservative imagining for some reason I have to dig and wait for a few hours...a day..hopefully never a few days. ditto on DPS's external gear (goggles, mitts, etc).

Edited by Water
Posted

Pretty much concur with Water:

 

Bottoms

Briefs (boxer-briefs - the best of both worlds)

Mid Weight long underwear

Mid weight soft shell pants

Gaitors

 

Top

Mid weight long sleeve zip tee

Marmot DriClime windshirt

Montbell Versalite shell

Patagonia Micropuff hooded parka

 

polypro glove liners

Fleece gloves

Primaloft insulated gloves

 

Warm hat

Ski goggles

Posted

Get a belay jacket of some sort. I have one from Wild Country but there is also the Patagonia Puff Ball.

 

One thing that really helps me to regulate my temp is going sans hat under my helmet. If I am cold I just pull the hood up on my jacket.

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