How to properly install a bolt...?

[freeclimb9]

I write again, 5/16" buttonhead bolts ("Rawl Drive" is the trademark) have not been manufactured for over a decade. In other words, unless a hardware vendor put in a stockpile back when Flock of Seagulls got radio time, you're not going to get them. Nor will you find the lightweight SMC hangers that go so well with them. The end of that era occured when George Bush senior still had his finger on the button. It's over.

[viktor]

http://www.shorelinemtn.com/

These guys have 5/16" buttonheads for 1.80 each

[Dru]

You can get nice stainless 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" Fixe cone-and-wedge designs at MEC.... they don't have the same torque problem as torque bolts - just drill the hole the right depth and pound them home.

A personal tip when you place a bolt of this type - put the hangar on the bolt, and the nut, before you start pounding it into the hole. why? because if you smack that thing good you can strip or deform the threads on the head and then its damn hard to get the nut to go on.

also, don't forget the drinking straw to blow the dust out of the hole before you start pounding the bolt in!

[pope]

How to set a bolt? First, you make up your mind to treat the mountain/wall like a proper lady, not a whore. You respect the defenses that she presents, and you convince yourself that your little project will be far more rewarding if you meet the mountain on her terms. Don't bring a gun to a fist fight.

Next, you get a hold of one of the many fine manuals that detail safe/secure bolt placements. Then, with hand drill in holster and aiders and hooks at the ready, you WALK TO THE BASE OF YOUR GOD DAMNED ROUTE and you start climbing. If, after twenty feet, you find no place to stand or hook and drill, and if the climbing's difficult demands placement of a bolt, YOU CRAP YOUR PANTS AND BEGIN DOWN CLIMBING, having preserved the challenge for somebody who has developed the necessary skills to get the protection from the bottom up. That somebody might be you in a few years, and you'll be happy the challenge is still there.

[Peter_Puget]

Forget the "confessional" I'm bringing out the analyst's couch!

 

"proper lady, not a whore"

"you meet the mountain on her terms"

"gun to a fist fight"

"hand drill in holster"

"GOD['s DAMN[ation]"

"hook and drill"

"YOU CRAP YOUR PANTS"

"preserved the challenge for somebody who has developed the necessary skills"

"protection from the bottom up"

What an amazing combination of the profane and the sacred, of aggression and submission. Combining the Madonna/whore idea with homoeroticism. And the wrap-up offering a chance for redemption. Your post makes me realize how many facets of the climbing experience I've been missing.

 

[slaphappy]

Just like you have always done, right Pope?

[Dwayner]

Mr. Puget: your addition to the discussion has offered nothing other than a weakly comical attempt to ridicule my buddy, pope. You have not addressed the content of the issue which I think he so poetically expressed through metaphor. Stick to the issue at hand and maybe we'll choose to ignore your half-baked attempt at that pseudoscience known as psychoanalysis.

aloha, Dwayner

[Dru]

Pope, did you crap your pants as well as your sleeping bag, or what?? See my comments to Capt. on the Slesse thread about adult depends. you could avoid future problems...

[Guest]

Hey "pope"! I hope you're not referring to me in your statement below because I'm sure I didn't reward you for your antics even though you treated me like your "little project"!

"How to set a bolt? First, you make up your mind to treat the mountain/wall like a proper lady, not a whore. You respect the defenses that she presents, and you convince yourself that your little project will be far more rewarding if you meet the mountain on her terms." This from a guy who CRAPPED ON HIS OWN SLEEPING BAG!!! (and I won't even mention the Katie Brown/Lynn Hill scrapbook I found under his bed!). I do agree with "pope" on the bolt issue, though.

- Donna

Hey Dwayner: Where you been? Give me a call at my office.