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Posted (edited)

I'm really having a tough time here. I can't seem to find exactly what I want. I'm new to ice climbing, so I don't know exactly what will work for me and what won't. I just ordered a pair of Black Diamond Mercury mitts, so I have the super cold stuff covered. I'm just trying to find a waterproof, dexterous glove for the majority of my climbing. I guess that I'm trying to cover the 20-40 degree window, which I assume will be most of my climbing. I like the idea of having a gauntlet cuff too.

 

I have a trip to New York coming up to top rope in the Catskills. In January, my friend and I will climb Mt. Washington. With more experience, we will do bigger mountains and head west. I'm mainly interested in mountaineering and alpine climbing, but being from Maryland, will probably end up taking weekend trips to climb water ice more.

 

I have a relative who can get Hestra, Dakine, Swani, Swix, Gordini and North Face at cost.

 

My thoughts:

-I figure that a waterproof shell is soooo much more desirable than just a waterproof liner.

-Palm should be leather for grip and toughness.

-I need something slim enough to remove protection without dropping it.

-Gauntlet will keep snow and water out of my jacket.

 

Here are some that I found are about what I'm looking for. Please let me know what you think. Any suggestions?

 

Hestra Czone

 

I like these, except the palm. I'd rather have leather. Does polyurethane grip and hold up? Will the liner slide around while I climb? TNF Triclimate

 

These look perfect, but pretty expensiveOR- Alpine Alibi II

 

OR- Highcamp

 

Cheaper, but bulkier? Waterproof shell?OR- Revolution

 

Thanks. I'm probably making too big of a deal about all this. Should I just get a pair of gloves and stop worrying about it?

 

 

-Ricky

 

 

Edited by Rickpatbrown
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Posted

you will find that you need a quiver of gloves starting with

simple liners for the approach in

something like the BD drytool glove for actual ice climbing (maybe even 2 or 3 pairs during the day)

something with a shell over for belaying or sloggin up mt washginton.

and that mitten you got for times when you should be at home

 

for ice climbing, I bring 3 pairs of gloves like the drytool glove. After a pitch, I drop the glove into the jacket to dry out. I have found that the lighter the glove (to a point), the warmer the hands are which is counter intuitive. But it has to do with hard hard I am gripping the tool. Thicker gloves = tighter gripping = less blood flow = colder hands

 

So I look for a trim fit that does not cut off circulation. gauntlets are for skiing powder. I think the alibi is a good glove but it did not fit me very well. The fingers were cut too short when I tried them 8 years ago. Much like boots, you will need to try them on to see if they will work for you.

Posted

Some general thoughts about gloves that have come up in recent discussions:

 

- synthetic palm is warmer than a leather palm in comparable thickness of gloves

- use the thinnest glove you can withstand to be in

- waterproof is not as important as dexterity

- bring several pairs of lightweight gloves over one heavier waterproof one

- a waterproof pair is nice for belaying, rapelling, resting, etc.

- gloves will get trashed, so often cheaper is better

Posted

The $10 fleece insulated rubber-dip glove works great for climbing at temperatures above -20c. Don't rappel with them though.

 

I wear these for climbing with an old trashed pair of insulated leather-palm shell gloves tucked in my jacket for belays and rappels.

 

Add another pair of light leather-palm softshell glove for the approach and you're golden.

 

5207878517_e21cde25e5.jpg

 

Make sure you get the ones with rubber over the back knuckles so your gloves don't wet out when you touch the ice. A $10 pair will last approximately 1-3 seasons of ice (100 pitches or so) before getting trashed in my experience.

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