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Prusik Peak in October


Adam Watts

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Should I return in mid summer to climb it instead?

Well your odds would be better that way, but you might still be able to hit a nice day.

 

With the quality of point-based weather forecasts and real time info on the web, it shouldn't be all that tough to predict what you will find. In addition to mild air temps, check that face wasn't recently plastered with snow. But it does face south, which helps.

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My girlfriend wants to go somewhere warm since last week we were up on Rainier in the snow. Where do you guys think the best sport climbing in WA state is? I have been vantage once and it was warm and fun. I'd like to sport climb and practice putting in pro to get more familiar with my cams and nuts. What about Leavenworth?

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i'd say vantage is better for fun sport leads, but leavenworth for easy trad leads. fun easy trad at barnie's rubble (one 5.6, one 5.8) that you can top rope, also other areas near the road in leavenworth. there are some fun easy trad leads at vantage too- but more at leavenworth. i don't enjoy the sport routes i've climbed at leavenworth, too slabby for my taste. sport at vantage has alot of large to small sized positive holds. fun climbing.

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Gibsons crack up the icicle is where I take my new trad leaders. Just upstream half a block is Mountaineer buttress where there are some great beginner trad climbs.

 

But Castle Rock 5 minutes West of Leavenworth has everything a beginner trad leader needs. Multipitch (three pitches) 5.4 (Saber and Midway) plus routes that are just a bit harder at 5.6 (Midway Direct, and Winter Solstice).

 

When those beginner routes get too easy, there is plenty more to keep you busy.

 

Castle Rock also has awesome views because you start from Loggers Ledge, which is halfway up.

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