[TR] Lexington Tower - East Face 9/9/2011

[curtveld]

Trip: Lexington Tower - East Face

 

Date: 9/9/2011

 

Trip Report:

Lexington has always been an objective evoking mixed feelings. An awesome line in a beautiful spot, but always a fair bit intimidating.

 

This hesitation was not based solely on my own insecurity with wide cracks. On one of my first visits to WA Pass in the late 80’s I talked to climbers along the road: “That chimney was really awkward – I’ve done 5.10bs that were easier!” Sure the select books have it, but with descriptions like “strenuous and intimidating off-width” (Nelson). Beckey uses the terms “exhausting” and “difficult” repeatedly, not to mention “difficult protection” and “questionable bolts”. OK…. no wonder none of my partners ever seem to share my interest in Lexington.

 

In the decades since, I had ticked off the other Pass classics, some harder, some easier, but never Lexington. It had become the last tick.

 

But Andy agreed to do it...again. He had climbed it once long ago and recalled a very long day and considerable pulling on gear. Well, at least that meant there would be gear to pull if needed.

 

So after an early start and tense hike under the Bell, we reached the right-hand toe at the Face’s low point. We were not going to sneak up the left-hand gully and traverse into the route – we were there to do the complete East Face!

 

When we dumped out the gear, we discovered a problem. I had two rock shoes, but they were both left-footed! What an idiot – after all the buildup, now I’d have to wait for another opportunity. But Andy’s ingenuity came through: “You can wear my rock shoe on your right and I’ll wear your approach shoe - It’ll be fine as long as you lead everything”. I agreed to give it a try – in fact, his sloppy shoe would give me an excuse if I flailed!

 

Of course, the actual climb could not live up to the buildup, though it was indeed solid and dramatic. The pro is fine and you do have to engage in some true chimney and off-width climbing, but not always where you expect from the topo. I finally learned how the route surmounts the huge roof shown in Nelson’s photo I had inspected for so long, and it’s pretty cool. And Andy managed just fine with his rock/approach-shoe combo.

 

The familiar approach

 

What’s wrong with these shoes?

 

Clean climbing on lower slab

 

Steeper cracks on pitch 4

 

Conspirators at belay 5

 

Time for the biz - the overhanging off-width of pitch 6. The sling is attached to the famous 2"x4".

 

Rappelling into the shadow of the Early Winters group

 

Tat at belay #5, good spot to stash packs

 

Gear Notes:

Medium rack to #5 camelot.

Descent via rappel

[JasonG]

Really cool! I have often wondered about that climb.....another reason to train on the rock a bit harder I see.

[Tyson.g]

Nice Curt!

Looks like Andy's visit went swimmingly!

Stories over beers this week?

Tyson

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Sounds kinda like my experience. I thought the route was quite fun and not as intimidating as I expected. I though the first pitch or two with the slabby bits and less gear was the scariest (although I hadn't been doing much slab climbing then). Nice job!