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Posted

Won't bore you with all the details of the trip but here's a few. They say a picture is worth a thousand words. So here's a fucking book.

"That's what she said" was a huge part in this trip and kept us alive.

 

Mile Stones:

3rd Rainier Summit

2nd Led summit

Knocked 1hr 30mins off my fastest hike to Muir (3hr 55 min total)

Still alive

Marks first Summit

 

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Cute girl sitting on rock waiting on her boyfriend [not me :( ]

 

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Camp Muir tent site

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Camp Site + some crevasses on the "Moo" - litz glacier

 

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Now I want to say something about this picture here. The guy up front wanted to pass us since our 2nd guy wasn't feeling so hot. They had a really strong team, were moving a lot faster, but wanted us to stop moving all together with 150ft rope out. Doing this would have backed us up, made us stop, and would have caused every other rope team behind to move past us for about 30mins to an hour. The slope here wasn't very steep, so I asked their leader if he didn't mind moving straight instead of doing a switch back so we could all keep moving. Now the guy you can't see behind the dude on the left was a complete ass. I've pretty much ignored him, but the shit he said was pretty uncalled for. And if you read this post, your a douche bag. By the time he caught up to me he was one of the biggest pricks I've ever seen on a mountain. I kept my cool there as I didn't want to get into a fight at 13k, but now that I'm off that mountain you can go fuck yourself. (Sorry internet warrior coming out)

 

Pretty pictures

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Crater shot and Mark taking a leak

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Group shot

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Celebrating on the Columbia Crest

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Yeah, I'm pretty bad ass now

 

Decent time:

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The Ingraham looks like thor took his hammer to it and just shattered it.

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Some clouds rolled in as we hit the summit, it was probably one of the coolest things i've ever seen in my life as the clouds swooped over and down the other side of the crater.

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All in all a great trip except one douche bag on the mountain.

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Posted

Always interesting on DC. FWIW when passing a group it is no different that passing on the highway. When there is no passing lane the group being over taken maintains their speed. The faster group passes in such a manner that they do not cause harm to others.

 

So in this case IHMO you were spot on - have the other group cut the trail switch back while your group continues on (and if needed slow just a bit to let them finish). Further, they should cut the switch back in such a way that if they screw up and fall they fall past your group and not into your group.

 

The last point is very important. I rarely pass anyone going up as we are typically on other routes but on the way down we are usually on one of the standard routes. We always pass on the low side. Besides preventing the fall hazard it prevents our rope from getting in the other groups way - especially if we are moving fast and have slack in places.

Posted

Brian,

 

Nice work on your summit and not reacting to the guy who gave you a hard time. Shows good discipline on your part which I believe is critical to overall longevity in the "arena". The DC's main objective danger is a fairly high percentage of the other people you will find on that route imo. Patience and discipline are attributes that will serve one well in the mountains, the DC will test those.

 

I descended the DC in early June this year after climbing another route and was reminded how slow it could be when we reached the fixed lines at the cleaver. We queued up and waited for almost an hour for a group to get down them. Appeared to be a lot of standing around and waving of arms. Tough to tell what took so long but we just chilled, had a snack etc. Others were caught and did the same. It was cool... Patience...

 

BTW nice pics there. It's melted off a lot since I was there almost a couple months ago fur sure.

 

d

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Now that is some funny stuff- classic DC shenanigans. It's pretty amazing that teams would get aggro about passing when faced with a large, wide open glacier. I agree that the other parties are often on par with the objective hazards on the hill. Straight out of Vertical Limit.

 

 

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