Karl_S Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 Thought it might be good to start over on this issue with so many posts on the old one. As of 6-20-11: Pearly Gates: Main berg is open and wide both directions. A second berg lower and to climber's right of main berg has opened up making it impossible to climb the Pearly Gates without one of the bergs being in your fall line. The gates look in good shape. I could not detect any ice steps in the gates from my vantage point on the Hogs. Cliffs along West Crater Rim and most of Devils Kitchen are still 90% ice covered. Ice on Steel Cliffs is rapidly melting, but most is still there. Old Chute: In great shape. Topping out routes include direct to ridge and then a short 'walk' along the knife edge ridge or instead take one of at least 2 chutes to the climber's right after you are about 3/4 the way up the slope. These bypass the knife edge ridge, but that keep you in ice fall hazards and are prone to bottlenecks. Strategic route down low is to drop down from the Hogsback, rather than the high traverse under the cliffs, and after crossing the hot rocks (dirt) ascend straight up keeping the hot rocks in your fall line rather than the drop off into the fumerole to the climber's right. This puts you in the fall line of ice above, but you are some distance from them allowing time to "run". Part way up, move to the right to get out of line of cliff ice fall (now the fumerole is in your runout, but you have some distance to self arrest.). Choose your topping out. Quote
Xerinae Posted June 22, 2011 Posted June 22, 2011 Great beta, thanks. I was wondering why no one seemed to begoing up the gates lately. Might go check it out tonight. Quote
dinomyte Posted June 26, 2011 Posted June 26, 2011 I was up this morning and chose the right-most chute off the Old Chute route. A little icy, but not too bad. Hugging the right wall of that chute was fine. On the way down, I chose the standard route down after walking the knife-edge ridge. IMHO, it seemed steeper than the other route, though down is always a little deceiving. Everything depends on comfort level, but I was happy to have a tool in addition to my axe. The final little slope seems pretty chopped up. Not like the absolute stairs in June a couple years ago. It was nice to be first on the summit, catch the sunrise, and get the hell out before 18 roped teams of 12 came along. Quote
sean1500 Posted July 3, 2011 Posted July 3, 2011 dinomyte, how sketchy is the knife-edge ridge? I'm told it has a ton of exposure. First time climbing hood later this week. Sean Quote
PaulO Posted July 3, 2011 Posted July 3, 2011 Going up tonight solo and taking Karl's advice. Old chute to the bypass (fairly easy chute past the ridge)and miss the worst of both might look at the ridge on the way down. Quote
sean1500 Posted July 3, 2011 Posted July 3, 2011 PaulO, I'm planning on giving it a try Wed night or Thurs night with a friend of mine. Any feedback would be awesome. Good luck, stay safe, have fun. Sean Quote
dinomyte Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 Well, you definitely don't wanna fall off the north side, or the south side for that matter. But that said, there is a nice trail, and it's proably 18 inches wide or so. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong anyone, but it's not like you are walking a balance beam. Quote
chris54 Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 Went up south side sat. Morning I was 1 of six or seven hundred to summit. Ridge had a nice path. Quote
PaulO Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 Did go, left T-line @ 2:30am. Snow was perfect, almost got to hogsback without crampons. Old Chute was firm with (in places) a lot of loose stuff from the rime falling off and the folks kicking things down but not too bad. The approach to the other way to top out and miss the narrow ridge looked sketchy so I went on up the old chute to the ridge. It was fine. A short 6 - 8 foot section a bit narrower but certainly still wide enough. I go a few pictures of it on FB. FB Photo FB Photo FB Photo Quote
dhrmabum Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 Paulo, or anyone, You didn't happen to find a headlamp somewhere just above t-line parking lot, did you? I lost my favorite petzl. . And yes, conditons were excellent. Quote
PaulO Posted July 7, 2011 Posted July 7, 2011 Hopefully you got the headlamp back...was that you who asked me if I had found one? Quote
devan Posted July 7, 2011 Posted July 7, 2011 what a bummer you never found your headlamp. I think I was the person that lent you mine. Great 4th of July climb. Happy summer! Quote
dhrmabum Posted July 8, 2011 Posted July 8, 2011 what a bummer you never found your headlamp. I think I was the person that lent you mine. Great 4th of July climb. Happy summer! Greetings Devan! Hey, I just got my ol' beloved headlamp back last night! A good man, Jonathon, was hiking/skinnig up right behind us and found it. Saw my post and Voila! returned it to me last night! Good people out there. Thanks again for the loaner that night, Devan. And thanks for returning it, Jonathon! And yes, it was a most excellent Fourth o' July climb and ski. Catch you next time, and thanks again. Quote
iceaxe23 Posted July 10, 2011 Posted July 10, 2011 anyone going up tonight? I think I may I have off of work tomorrow so why not? Quote
LonelySummit Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 Andrew; are you thinking of heading up this next weekend (16-17th)? I've got an early group heading up for a SS climb; lemme know if you are interested in joining. Any Mazama teams up this weekend? Quote
Xerinae Posted July 13, 2011 Posted July 13, 2011 I'm considering it. It will probably be the last weekend where this route is comfortably doable. It doesn't look like there are any more Mazama Hood climbs this season. But, there could be some that were rescheduled o this weekend after being cancelled. I'd like to climb something this weekend, not sure what yet. Waiting for someone to talk me into something. Quote
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