[TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 5/27/2011

[tablesaw]

Trip: Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier

 

Date: 5/27/2011

 

Trip Report:

Adam and I made an attempt at Mt. Stuart via the Ice Cliff Glacier route. Due to the road closure and the large amount of snow, we did not summit....we made it to the base of the Ice Cliff Glacier at 3pm and decided against the possibility of descending Sherpa Glacier in the dark. The following is some current approach beta. I’ll add some pictures as soon as I can too.

 

Icicle Creek Road was still closed at Eight Mile Campground (it opened at 5 pm…) so we ended up walking the road to the Stuart Lake TH. Stuart Lake Trail was well-travelled and easy to follow; snowshoes are highly recommended as there is still a large amount of snow. Once we broke off the trail and headed towards Mountaineer Creek route finding took longer than expected through the boulders and trees with quality post-holing and a few nose dives along the way. We continued through the trees up to the base of Stuart with cloudy skies and snow flurries amounting to about ½” accumulation.

 

Once we broke out of the trees and to the base of Stuart the sun was shining, although the summit was in clouds the entire time. We made it as far as about 200 yards from the Ice Cliff, but due to fairly regular ice fall from the surrounding rock we decided to keep our distance. At this point it was nearing 3 o’clock p.m. and neither of us wanted to descend Sherpa Glacier in the dark. Summit attempt failed.

 

The Ice Cliff was looking beautiful! We saw a huge wall of blue ice with a nice ramp up the far left side leading to a snow-filled glacier. It looked as though there was a decent cornice at the top of the couloir, which may require a pitch or two of rock to detour around it.

 

We turned around and hiked back to the truck at Eight Mile Campground, trying unsuccessfully to hitch hike (I guess we looked scary…) arriving at about 11 pm. From here we stopped by McDonald’s in Leavenworth for some delicious (not really) dollar menu burgers and a drive back to Seattle, arriving at around 2:30 am. What a day.

 

We’re going to make another attempt shortly, but the road is now open and we will try things a bit differently given the amount of snow.

Pictures to follow!

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Snowshoes, trekking poles, ice axe, crampons, 2 snow pickets, 2 19cm ice screws, small rock rack to 2", 60m rope

 

Didn't use any of the gear.

 

Approach Notes:

Lots of snow. The trail is obvious and well-beaten to the point where you have to head west along Mountaineer Creek. Post-holing was all too common through avi fields and buried trees.http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_1453.JPG[/img]

Edited June 3, 2011 by tablesaw

[tanstaafl]

I did that descent in the dark once, and although I cannot fault your logic, I can also say that it was a climb I'll never forget.

[bruce59]

"post-holing and a few nose dives along the way."

Good stuff, I was up there a couple weeks ago, with snowshoes,

and took a few nose dives myself. Thanks for the update.

[kevino]

Looking forward to the pictures...

 

Any word when they are going to open the gate to the TH?

[BStory]

I skied the Sherpa and Ice Cliff glaciers on May 29 and 30. It was my first time up Mountaineer creek, and we were happy to follow your tracks during the approach. Thanks.

 

Gate was still closed as of 5/30. Not sure when the gate will open, but when it does, the road is dry to the TH.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

Freezing level is rising sharply to over 12K this w/e. How big were those cornices on the ridge? Any evidence of stuff falling yet (or sloughs on the glacier for that matter)?

 

 

[jonesy]

I think we talked to you guys by the bridge on the way out... props to you on the attempt!

[powdrx]

Thanks for the TR. Sounds like deep and unconsolidated snow is a concern all around the state after talking/hearing from several people. Great effort!!

[tablesaw]

Thanks man. And good luck with that back!

[tablesaw]

The cornices were pretty good size. It didn't appear as though they had broken off yet. I didn't get a good look at it though because the ridge was in and out of the clouds throughout the day. The right side looked smaller than the left.

 

There was some ice fall coming off the rock surrounding the glacier, especially off the right side. With the temps rising I would expect things to be moving around a bit more.

 

I'll get pictures up tonight.

[AdamZuber]

I printed a photo of the Ice Cliff and pasted it on the wall in front of my desk so I can get comfortable with the route, photographically speaking.

 

Does anybody know the magic number for Washington's average snow accumulation % this year?

 

I was looking at the TOPO and the Ice Cliff Glacier is definitely smaller than it was when the TOPO was published.

Edited June 2, 2011 by AdamZuber

[powdrx]

Pretty cool picture!! And FYI, the gate is now open so your next attempt will be "easier".