Squamish questions.

[Autoxfil]

Hey y'all - my climbing partner got whacked by a car last year while cycling (texting driver, super-lame), and still isn't up to lib ridge like we'd planned. But, he can climb rock like a mofo, so we're keeping our plane tickets and going to Squamish for a week in the middle of June!

 

I've read the other threads and know what I'm going to climb - all those sweet granite cracks! But I had a few other questions.

 

First, is the Chief campground the place to be? We're tenting it, so it's not like we can't move around if we hear about something better while we are there.

 

We will be climbing Sun-Thurs. Should mid-week crowds be light, or will good weather get the locals and other vacationers out enough that we'll have to be up and moving early to get on the classics? I don't wait in line for climbs, that blows and I'd go to the Gunks if I wanted queues.

 

What quality big-mountain routes are nearby? If my partner's leg acts up and he needs a rest day I plan to slip out my ice axe and get my alpine fix.

 

Finally - if the weather looks too moist in Squish all that week, we're going to be in Seattle looking for other destinations. What should be on our short list that might be dry when it's sloppy wet up North? Leavenworth, Smith Rocks, Index?

 

FYI, I cross-posted on ST. Sorry for those that visit both, but they seem to be rather exclusive.

[jmace]

1) yes thats the place

 

2) Should be fine its not that busy but a plan b is always good, as usual

 

3) Lots of snow plods around, Wedge mtn/hut would be the place to explore if you get keen. Easy access type thing

 

4) Also Vantage, Tieton, Trout, Skaha

 

Enjoy

[boadman]

1) I like camping at the rec center a little better, it's got a pool and a hot tub. It's super quiet during the week, too.

 

2) Depends on how hard you're climbing. Some of the classic moderates, like the grand wall, diedre, UE, will have a couple of parties on them every day in the summer. If you're on slightly harder routes, like Freeway or something, you shouldn't have to worry about lines.

 

3) Mt Garibaldi is right there, it's a biggish mountain.

 

4) A nice compromise between liberty ridge and rock climbing would be the complete north ridge of mount stuart. It's a bit of an approach, but the climbing is super fun, and definitely alpine. 50 classics for sure, and the weather can be more dependable than Squish.

Edited May 19, 2011 by boadman

[genepires]

there is so much to do at squamish that crowds should not be a problem except for the routes boadman mentions. But you will not see anyone on squaw, papoose, other parts of apron, ect. 5 days is not enough time.

[selkirk]

If you're making a run a Diedre the Ultimate Everything link up is fun and takes you to top.

 

If you have time (even a 1/2 day), stopping at Index on your way North to Squamish might be worthwhile. Super classic stuff from 5. moderate to 5.hard, and it's only about 40 miles off of I-5 so it's not really out of the way. Lower Town wall has zero approach, and if you don't mind the hike to the Upper wall the Davis-Holland / Lovin Arms linkup rocks!

[Autoxfil]

Thanks all!

 

I'll try Calculus, St. Vitus, Diedre, or something else to Ultimate Everything (or Butt Face?) for sure - gotta get to the top! We might even bivy on Broadway for fun.

[jmace]

Ultimate Everything (or Butt Face?)

 

these two routes are slow driers, multiple days of sun type thing although climbable when wet

[dberdinka]

In June DEFINITELY HAVE A BACK UP PLAN/DESTINATION MAYBE MULTIPLE.

 

Which means east side. All things considered if I had four days hanging out in the Icicle Creek and cragging would be better than the alternative locations. If the weather really sucks you might be able to salvage days in Vantage or Smith/Trout. I always seemed to get weathered out in Skaha.....

[genepires]

if the backup is leavenworth, you can get your snow fix by going up the colchuck glacier (easy solo if you stay to the left side and prolly any side is safe)

[selkirk]

Ultimate Everything (or Butt Face?)

 

these two routes are slow driers, multiple days of sun type thing although climbable when wet

 

I climbed it over Memorial day a couple of years ago. Diedre was dry, but Ultimate had running water on a couple pitches Was still manageable and enjoyable, those pitches just felt more 5.8ish than 5.7ish.

[hansbauck]

Definitely the Chief campground, by far. The vibe is usually great, and you can meet partners if needed. And theres the always fun drunken 10pm bouldering. If you need a shower the rec centre has $2 deals at noonish on weekdays.

 

Crowds in June aren't too bad except weekends, and really only on 5.10 or less routes. The lower the grade, the more climbers you will find. I find the best strategy to avoid lineups is to start really late, mainly because I'm lazy and slow people will always get up earlier than me.

 

Joffre and Matier are a lot of fun, and you get to start high. Not sure of conditions.

 

Skaha is rarely wet in June, unlike Squamish. It's probably your best bet.

 

Unlike some of the other posters, I would avoid Ultimate Everthing/Diedre/Calculus unless 5.8/9 is your limit. These are by far the most crowded climbs you will find. In the 5.10 range off the top of my head I would try Angels Crest, Sunblessed, all the cracks at the grand wall base, Great Game, and Centrefold. Maybe a day at the smoke bluffs. At 10+/11- add Milk Road and the Grand Wall. All of these routes are well protected (except the first few metres of sunblessed) and IMO are of excellent quality. Probably the only one to worry about crowds is Angels Crest. Avoid the weekend for it and you're fine, or start at noon.

Edited May 31, 2011 by hansbauck