Everything posted by hansbauck
Definitely the Chief campground, by far. The vibe is usually great, and you can meet partners if needed. And theres the always fun drunken 10pm bouldering. If you need a shower the rec centre has $2 deals at noonish on weekdays. Crowds in June aren't too bad except weekends, and really only on 5.10 or less routes. The lower the grade, the more climbers you will find. I find the best strategy to avoid lineups is to start really late, mainly because I'm lazy and slow people will always get up earlier than me. Joffre and Matier are a lot of fun, and you get to start high. Not sure of conditions. Skaha is rarely wet in June, unlike Squamish. It's probably your best bet. Unlike some of the other posters, I would avoid Ultimate Everthing/Diedre/Calculus unless 5.8/9 is your limit. These are by far the most crowded climbs you will find. In the 5.10 range off the top of my head I would try Angels Crest, Sunblessed, all the cracks at the grand wall base, Great Game, and Centrefold. Maybe a day at the smoke bluffs. At 10+/11- add Milk Road and the Grand Wall. All of these routes are well protected (except the first few metres of sunblessed) and IMO are of excellent quality. Probably the only one to worry about crowds is Angels Crest. Avoid the weekend for it and you're fine, or start at noon.
I climbed it about 5 years ago, and this is what I remember. 1. Plenty long. I had a 50m half rope, doubled over. 2. Just bring a few nuts and cams. A really small rack is plenty. There are very few tricky parts, and some fixed pins here and there. In total I think I placed 2 pieces of gear and clipped two pitons when I climbed it. 3. The Gmoser highway is almost harder than the route. Be careful with routefinding. Have you considered the faster approach from the "back side"? 4. If the route is in good shape (mostly snow free) then it is basically a scramble. Even if you are cautious you shouldn't need to rope up until the grey band. Some simul-climbing on a short rope is probably the best way to go from there to the summit. If you are confident, then soloing the route would be a good way to go. A half dozen or so short rappels will get you below the grey band. Be prepared to back up the rappels or replace webbing. Have fun. It's a really cool peak. If you are staying at Magog lake you can buy beer from the lodge.
If you're looking for rock routes the Bugs are amazing, and there's LOTS of good routes with short approaches and really good rock. Plus there's a nice hut to hang out at. Assiniboine requires a LONG day in and out unless you can afford the chopper ride, so maybe not a good choice if pressed for time. Mt Sir Donald is VERY cool. I would highly recommend it. Good rock. Castle Mountain is good (Brewers Butt and Eisenhower Tower) and has a hut with a great view. Have heard good things about Mt Louis and East Ridge of Temple, but haven't done these. Your choices are good. Perhaps consider Yak Peak on the way in or out if you're going that way. And remember that the Rockies has really crappy rock compared to anywhere. It scares the crap out of me. Have fun.