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stevetimetravlr

Whats this route?

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I just looked at Tim Olsens big poster map of Beacon that I have laminated. It looks like Borderline is the line left of Blownout, and Second Wind goes right. Says Borderline is 11b and Second Wind is 11d, yikes. Stout. How is Borderline?

 

it's 11b, great route. the crack system after the bolt is perfect and seems to stay pretty clean.

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Hey Billcoe... Im pretty sure my friend and I aided that thing back in the late 90's, I can't recall a name though. That arete above his head would make for a killer line!

 

Sure? Jim had said it had never been done before, certainly was not in Tims book, and we didn't see any evidence of a prior ascent. If you did you must have bagged the FA. Tell us about it. Name of who you climbed it with, dates, pro, where you went or finished etc etc? We'll make sure you get credit for it.

 

 

Wow didnt think we had done an FA... I'll write some more in a little bit then!

 

that's what she (ivan) said

[video:youtube]7yl3UMO-TkE

 

 

and ivan told me a while back i should retire pink, nigga puleezz!!!

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I getting kind of old myself. Just noticed the second line right of Blownout is called Rock Pirates. 5.12 and runout it says. The topo shows at least 12 bolts on it, thats a Beacon rarity in one pitch.

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Rock Pirates. Robert McGown first ascent.

 

First free ascent M. Cartier and D. Nakahira 1985

 

The saame guys that did 1st free ascent of Bears in Heat, must have been prolific ass kickers.

 

 

 

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ok, that explains everything Ivan! Pipeline rockfall?

shot in the head by a loweball, then, all slap-happy, blowing out 2 pieces at the start of silver crowe or whatever the fuck it was - here hanging in space next to geoff at the top of the 1st pitch of pipeline :)

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IMG_0630.jpg

 

Dastardly Crack?

If not DC, then Jensen's?

 

BTW, Ya'll are gonna lose all yer Beatard cred if'n you don't start bitch'n, whinin, and cursin. Just sayin... :P

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I just looked at Tim Olsens big poster map of Beacon that I have laminated. It looks like Borderline is the line left of Blownout, and Second Wind goes right. Says Borderline is 11b and Second Wind is 11d, yikes. Stout. How is Borderline?

borderline is good rock climb.

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if i remember correctly pirates doesn't really have all the bolts shown but it does have some and some pins. i also remember jim saying that it really hadn't been freed?

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if i remember correctly pirates doesn't really have all the bolts shown but it does have some and some pins. i also remember jim saying that it really hadn't been freed?

:wave:

 

 

 

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DSCN0524.JPG

 

 

 

 

you'll never guess this one :fahq:

 

 

tourons31.jpg

 

 

notice any similarities? anyone buellar, buellar, buellar :lmao:

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Cartier still climbs out at Beacon and I know he usually gets on Borderline and BSS every year. He did NIAD with Florine three or four years ago. Daryl is still active in Bend as well I believe and at one point bitd when the Camp 4 boys were into boxing he went a few rounds with Bachar more than holding his own.

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I'll have to add Borderline to the List for next year. In looking at Olsens color map see that he upgraded Bears in Heat from 10d(old guide) to 11b. Thats more in line with what I thought, it was stout.

Ivan, r u sure thats not just a birthmark that comes and goes?

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DSCN0524.JPG

 

 

 

 

you'll never guess this one :fahq:

 

 

tourons31.jpg

 

 

notice any similarities? anyone buellar, buellar, buellar :lmao:

hate to break your heart pink, but those 2 pics ain't the same climb :)

 

in your pic, joe's up and right of where i am in my pic - where i am in my pic is where i was when cleaning and trying to go in joe's direction, which i abandoned after it looked like i'd need bolts, which i wanted to put off as long as possible

 

instead, my pitch traveres strait left - that pic shows the area kenny fell as well...

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IMG_0630.jpg

 

Dastardly Crack?

If not DC, then Jensen's?

 

nope, think a climb that geoff and i could actually free in reasonable style :)

 

 

we're already up a pitch as a hint, and not everyone belays from where i am

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DSCN0524.JPG

 

 

 

 

you'll never guess this one :fahq:

 

 

tourons31.jpg

 

 

notice any similarities? anyone buellar, buellar, buellar :lmao:

hate to break your heart pink, but those 2 pics ain't the same climb :)

 

in your pic, joe's up and right of where i am in my pic - where i am in my pic is where i was when cleaning and trying to go in joe's direction, which i abandoned after it looked like i'd need bolts, which i wanted to put off as long as possible

 

instead, my pitch traveres strait left - that pic shows the area kenny fell as well...

 

 

you don't have the mental capacity or the tits to break my heart son :)that's not what i was getting at, i was referring to the general area. i know that lower wall well, i've top roped all the possibilities. that's the first pitch of smoke signals. the anchor above it is just to left of yours.

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