how long does it take to climb Jefferson?

[wimsey]

I'm wondering if someone could give me an idea how long it would take to climb Jefferson, car to car(by whatever quickest route.) Perhaps if you have experience with the Three Sisters, you could frame it relative to climbing those. It appears Jefferson is less vertical feet and less total mileage than a Three Sisters traverse, but from reading trip reports and guidebooks, a fast car to car day would be quite challenging. Perhaps taking longer than a Three Sisters Marathon? Anybody know?

 

Also, does Jefferson typically have a late season window where it is possible to summit in tennies, like North Sister? Or is it always necessary to have snow/ice gear to get from the red saddle across to the summit pitch? What month would likely have the best conditions for a fast summit run?

 

thanks

[Water]

friend of mine did sw ridge in something like 24hr window last summer i think.. got in friday afternoon/eve up to a bivy site just above trees on sw ridge. up in the wee hours summit around sunrise, back down same route to car before evening saturday.

 

think sw ridge or milk creek will be fastest

 

i have heard that the traverse melts out completely.. but didn't north sister not lose all it's snow this past summer until extremely late, if at all? maybe I am wrong. to me those traverses are similar, tho north has more of a cliff right below it.. jeff didn't seem as extreme, my 2cents.

 

in early october 09 the south ridge had not a lick of snow along it and there was maybe 1-2 foot of mushy, not icy, snow, along the traverse from red saddle-probably newish after a previous week's dusting/storm or something. with strap on cramps, ice ax, and tennis shoes--could be done by anyone with confidence in their abilities.

[Alasdair]

It can be done car to car in a day if you are fit and dont have route finding issues.

[Cobra_Commander]

You can run the traverse in tennis shoes late season. You have to keep your momentum up as the scree starts to push you down the hill.

 

Definitely can be done car-to-car via Pamelia TH.

[jlag]

West Rib is the most direct route on Jefferson. Depending on what time of the year you may be able to go without crampons, but not sure about tennies. That way you avoid the traverse completely and can still come in Pamelia Lake TH.

 

Didn't you do N. Sister in some fast time, like 6 hours or less car to car? Seems like your time may above "average" so you should smoke it.

 

JL

[rbw1966]

Definitely can be done car-to-car via Pamelia TH.

 

+1

 

[sweatinoutliquor]

Jeff Park was a very do-able car to car day. Nowhere near the physical effort of the sisters marathon. It doesn't leave a lot of time for getting lost, but I don't recall any jogging either. Just be in good shape and be prepared to be on the move for most of a day. Actually I think overall we expended less effort by not dragging our overnight gear in there.

[wimsey]

Thanks, everyone. That helps.

[JohnGo]

In a normal snow year, the west facing aspects of Jefferson and North Sister both melt out enough to allow easy passage without crampons nor ice axe in late season. Typically this is after Sept 1 or so. A climb planned for Indian Summer in mid Sept should give you ideal conditions for a fast and light climb.

 

I feel these snow-less conditions make for a dramatically easier and safer ascent of these two peaks. Rather then 2 or 3 pitches of traversing 45-50 degree hard snow, you have a simple 3rd class stroll over scree. Not as aesthetic or earning of hard-man points, but a lot faster and safer.

 

(Having said that, North Sister held snow in 2010 all season and required crampies and ice axe above a hard snice, 50 degree medium-spicy 1 pitch traverse on Sept 10 2010, so always inquire about current conditions.

 

I suggest the West Rib route as the most direct. Avoid the Milk Creek gullies, as they are a funnel for any rockfall from higher up and have been the sad scene of several serious accidents over the years.

 

Good luck, and please post here with photos and conditions after you try it.

 

from the Mazamas website: late season conditions on the west facing traverse to the summit block, Jefferson. photo by Marty Hanson.

 

http://mazamas.org/images/routes/jeff3.jpg