YocumRidge Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Thanks to our own Chad Ellars (Lodestone) for his contribution to the ARI as featured in the current issue of Climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Larry Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Thanks for the article. In the interest of safety and education: In the photo of the anchor with chains it appears that the anchor bolts are placed in a vertical alignment, not horizontal. Is one orientation safer than the other? If so, why? Any articles on this already out there? Please post link if available. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankazoid Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 (edited) Thanks for the article. In the interest of safety and education: In the photo of the anchor with chains it appears that the anchor bolts are placed in a vertical alignment, not horizontal. Is one orientation safer than the other? If so, why? Any articles on this already out there? Please post link if available. Thank you. In the vertical setup like the picture, all of the forces on the bolts go directly down (what you want). The further apart you have the bolts the V shape increases/ gets wider and so do the >inward< forces on those bolts. Inward forces on 2 opposing bolts is not ideal, or good, as it puts more load on each bolt the wider the angle gets. straight down is good. If you were to pick up a large 100lb stone by keeping your upper body in vertical alignment and squatting the task would be as easy as it gets. Then think of how much of that 100lbs you would feel if you leaned foward ever so slightly while picking it up. Is that a shitty analogy or what? Edited January 13, 2011 by Frankazoid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankazoid Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Larry, Go to the bottom of the linked page for equilization info.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anchor_(climbing) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillA Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Replacing bolts is hard work and arguably the most prolific fixer of fucked fixed gear in Oregon is...Tyler Adams! He deserves a magazine article for the 500+ bolts he's replaced over the last five years, restoring many a neglected classic. Three cheers for Tyler and the rest of those selfless folks who choose to make our sport less dangerous! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Replacing bolts is hard work and arguably the most prolific fixer of fucked fixed gear in Oregon is...Tyler Adams! He deserves a magazine article for the 500+ bolts he's replaced over the last five years, restoring many a neglected classic. Three cheers for Tyler and the rest of those selfless folks who choose to make our sport less dangerous! I second that for sure! I appreciate his dedication to keeping the rest of us all safe and alive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 Three cheers for Tyler and the rest of those selfless folks who choose to make our sport less dangerous! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemp22 Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Ditto. Much Much thanks to Chad and Tyler! If I ever meet one of you guys at the crag, I'll buy you a pint afterwards.. Also, "terrible fixed anchor that consisted of a single bolt and a little slung flake" and the sad, hollow tree...sounds familiar - what route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Larry Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Thanks for the article. In the interest of safety and education: In the photo of the anchor with chains it appears that the anchor bolts are placed in a vertical alignment, not horizontal. Is one orientation safer than the other? If so, why? Any articles on this already out there? Please post link if available. Thank you. In the vertical setup like the picture, all of the forces on the bolts go directly down (what you want). The further apart you have the bolts the V shape increases/ gets wider and so do the >inward< forces on those bolts. Inward forces on 2 opposing bolts is not ideal, or good, as it puts more load on each bolt the wider the angle gets. straight down is good. If you were to pick up a large 100lb stone by keeping your upper body in vertical alignment and squatting the task would be as easy as it gets. Then think of how much of that 100lbs you would feel if you leaned foward ever so slightly while picking it up. Is that a shitty analogy or what? Great example. I just applied it, accidentally, while reaching to pick up a small package. The results being my trick back went out again. D'oh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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