THANKS to Chad!

[YocumRidge]

Thanks to our own Chad Ellars (Lodestone) for his contribution to the ARI as featured in the current issue of Climbing.

 

 

 

 

 

[ivan]

[Lucky Larry]

Thanks for the article. In the interest of safety and education: In the photo of the anchor with chains it appears that the anchor bolts are placed in a vertical alignment, not horizontal. Is one orientation safer than the other? If so, why? Any articles on this already out there? Please post link if available. Thank you.

[Frankazoid]

Thanks for the article. In the interest of safety and education: In the photo of the anchor with chains it appears that the anchor bolts are placed in a vertical alignment, not horizontal. Is one orientation safer than the other? If so, why? Any articles on this already out there? Please post link if available. Thank you.

 

In the vertical setup like the picture, all of the forces on the bolts go directly down (what you want). The further apart you have the bolts the V shape increases/ gets wider and so do the >inward< forces on those bolts. Inward forces on 2 opposing bolts is not ideal, or good, as it puts more load on each bolt the wider the angle gets. straight down is good. If you were to pick up a large 100lb stone by keeping your upper body in vertical alignment and squatting the task would be as easy as it gets. Then think of how much of that 100lbs you would feel if you leaned foward ever so slightly while picking it up. Is that a shitty analogy or what?

Edited January 13, 2011 by Frankazoid

[Frankazoid]

Larry,

 

Go to the bottom of the linked page for equilization info..

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anchor_(climbing)

[BillA]

Replacing bolts is hard work and arguably the most prolific fixer of fucked fixed gear in Oregon is...Tyler Adams! He deserves a magazine article for the 500+ bolts he's replaced over the last five years, restoring many a neglected classic. Three cheers for Tyler and the rest of those selfless folks who choose to make our sport less dangerous!

[powderhound]

Replacing bolts is hard work and arguably the most prolific fixer of fucked fixed gear in Oregon is...Tyler Adams! He deserves a magazine article for the 500+ bolts he's replaced over the last five years, restoring many a neglected classic. Three cheers for Tyler and the rest of those selfless folks who choose to make our sport less dangerous!

 

I second that for sure! I appreciate his dedication to keeping the rest of us all safe and alive.

[YocumRidge]

Three cheers for Tyler and the rest of those selfless folks who choose to make our sport less dangerous!

[hemp22]

Ditto. Much Much thanks to Chad and Tyler!

If I ever meet one of you guys at the crag, I'll buy you a pint afterwards..

 

Also,

"terrible fixed anchor that consisted of a single bolt and a little slung flake" and the sad, hollow tree...sounds familiar - what route?

 

[Lucky Larry]

Thanks for the article. In the interest of safety and education: In the photo of the anchor with chains it appears that the anchor bolts are placed in a vertical alignment, not horizontal. Is one orientation safer than the other? If so, why? Any articles on this already out there? Please post link if available. Thank you.

 

In the vertical setup like the picture, all of the forces on the bolts go directly down (what you want). The further apart you have the bolts the V shape increases/ gets wider and so do the >inward< forces on those bolts. Inward forces on 2 opposing bolts is not ideal, or good, as it puts more load on each bolt the wider the angle gets. straight down is good. If you were to pick up a large 100lb stone by keeping your upper body in vertical alignment and squatting the task would be as easy as it gets. Then think of how much of that 100lbs you would feel if you leaned foward ever so slightly while picking it up. Is that a shitty analogy or what?

 

Great example. I just applied it, accidentally, while reaching to pick up a small package. The results being my trick back went out again. D'oh.