Kent North Face

[Z-Man]

These pics are from yesterday. I believe both the right and left-hand lines in the second pic are unclimbed, at the moment they look as good as they ever do. The Kloke route is on the left and I think Scottgg's line is just to the right of the right-hand steep water ice. A chance for an FA day tripped from Seattle.

 

 

Edited January 3, 2011 by Z-Man

[Alex]

I believe the left hand line in the second pic is still unclimbed but the right hand line in the second pic is Dave and Scott's line from 2007.

[Z-Man]

I happened to to be climbing Kent the day they put up the route back then. When talking to them about it in the parking lot afterward my understanding was that they avoided the main body of ice and went up mixed ground to the right of it. Trogdor and Eric8 were up there that day too, maybe they remember exactly where they went.

Edited January 4, 2011 by Z-Man

[TrogdortheBurninator]

yeah, it looked like they skirted the main pillar via snow ramps to the right. Eric and I got part way up the 1st pitch of the left line before bailing. We did see an old pin though. No idea if it was from winter or summer or if the route was ever completed.

[Alex]

Ok, interesting, tne "topo" pic I have has their route going right up the ice flow.

[Z-Man]

http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/07/071_Shorts5.html

 

Mount Kent, North Face, New Route

 

On February 3, 2007, Scott Gullberg and I climbed a mixed route on the right side of the North Face of Mount Kent to the summit. The line starts in the obvious gully below the impressive ice pillar, ascending moderate snow and ice to a large bowl about a quarter of the way up the face. From the snow bowl, we bypassed the intimidating ice pillar to the right via two pitches of steep, difficult to protect, and sometimes brushy, mixed climbing, followed by an exposed traverse back left into the major gully. We continued to follow the gully as the angle eased off and then headed up and left through trees to the summit.

 

Grade III, M4

 

-David Conlin

[Jens]

I have found the Mt.Kent and Abiel Peak "ice" routes to be more exercises in tree "schwacking".

[scottgg]

Yeah, Dave and I avoided that plum pillar on the right side, then traversed back into the couloir above it. I'd love to go back there and take that pillar head on, cause the rest of the route was so cool!

[mountainsloth]

drove by yesterday. Looks like most of those lines have melted out. Damn warm weather!

[kukuzka1]

love to go back there and take that pillar head on

in 06 it looked like WI-5+R and it never looked any better. but....