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New Route on Mt. Spears


Dru

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Since this is an American mountain I thought I would report this new route here instead of on bivouac.com.

PITCH BY PITCH DESCRIPTION.

1-4. Begin at a slender pillar extending to the ground. Climb pillar using bear hug technique. 5.8, 5.9, 5.8, 5.95. Traverse left (underclings) under huge overhanging roof. 5.12b6. Pull roof using 2 artificial jugs and continue up deep crack to where it ends and belay. 5.12c A07. Climb up smooth slab and continue to belay on shoulder. 5.10b8. From shoulder, move left and up past flake onto smooth face. Move out onto arete at slight nose. Continue to top of face. 5.11a9. Rappel backside on copious vegetation to descend. A hairy descent.

Here is a picture of the new route

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[ 03-14-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

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quote:

Originally posted by W:
I bet in winter there's lot of opportunities for freshie facial shots.

Oh and Dru, I heard your Long Dong is more likely to result in a "Crack-n-Up"...
[laf]

Whatever is used there arent going to be many runouts cause placements will be numerous, deep and solid!

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quote:

Originally posted by W:
Still, I think it might be a good idea to wear a helmet.

Or some form of protection, although as it is (was?) a virgin summit, I kind of wonder who the protection is supposed to benefit?

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quote:

Originally posted by W:
Still, I think it might be a good idea to wear a helmet.

As this is rumoured to be a "first ascent", one would assume a helmet is not necessary as long as you clean your pin in time...However, how do we know some guy wasn't up there back in '99 and left no trace? I recommend a hat at minimum, preferable by the JimmyHat company...a subsidiary of SplitHer gear.

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quote:

Originally posted by willstrickland:

As this is rumoured to be a "first ascent", one would assume a helmet is not necessary as long as you clean your pin in time...However, how do we know some guy wasn't up there back in '99 and left no trace? I recommend a hat at minimum, preferable by the JimmyHat company...a subsidiary of SplitHer gear.

wow... and to think Allison was complaining about lack of wit!!!

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A pair of bulges are known to form to either side of the central offwidth if the weather is cold enough. Note that the bulges might require some tweaking in order to get a solid placement.

Although it seems unlikely that there will be a female ascent of this route, many hardmen would enthusiastically cheer such an effort.

[ 03-14-2002: Message edited by: slothrop ]

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