Dru Posted March 14, 2002 Posted March 14, 2002 Since this is an American mountain I thought I would report this new route here instead of on bivouac.com. PITCH BY PITCH DESCRIPTION. 1-4. Begin at a slender pillar extending to the ground. Climb pillar using bear hug technique. 5.8, 5.9, 5.8, 5.95. Traverse left (underclings) under huge overhanging roof. 5.12b6. Pull roof using 2 artificial jugs and continue up deep crack to where it ends and belay. 5.12c A07. Climb up smooth slab and continue to belay on shoulder. 5.10b8. From shoulder, move left and up past flake onto smooth face. Move out onto arete at slight nose. Continue to top of face. 5.11a9. Rappel backside on copious vegetation to descend. A hairy descent. Here is a picture of the new route ......... [ 03-14-2002: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote
Peter_Puget Posted March 14, 2002 Posted March 14, 2002 Now just where is the proof those are man made jugs! Quote
Chepe Posted March 14, 2002 Posted March 14, 2002 I went into the crack system between her um thighs then moved up into the jugfest before I dynoed my schlong into her mouth. What a summit but I tell you the route was killer albeit wet down low Quote
sayjay Posted March 14, 2002 Posted March 14, 2002 quote: Peter Puget wrote: Now just where is the proof these are man made jugs? sorry to disappoint y'all...http://home01.wxs.nl/~bigwilly/picz/britneys_breasts.swf Quote
Dru Posted March 14, 2002 Author Posted March 14, 2002 W i think a #8 Camp Long Dong will provide a better placement than a wimpy Pecker will. Quote
willstrickland Posted March 14, 2002 Posted March 14, 2002 That link is ripped off of Liquidgeneration.com, which loads really fast and has pretty cool stuff to boot Quote
greenfork Posted March 14, 2002 Posted March 14, 2002 There's a great nut placement on the pitch 8 variation, if you pull up onto the lip instead of climbing out onto the nose. Quote
Guest Posted March 14, 2002 Posted March 14, 2002 My route takes on the back side starting in a nice chimeny. Then I traversed around the front for them goodies Quote
W Posted March 14, 2002 Posted March 14, 2002 I bet in winter there's lot of opportunities for freshie facial shots. Oh and Dru, I heard your Long Dong is more likely to result in a "Crack-n-Up"... Quote
greenfork Posted March 14, 2002 Posted March 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by flick: My route takes on the back side starting in a nice chimeny. Then I traversed around the front for them goodies Ah yes, the Co*kscrew route... Quote
Dru Posted March 14, 2002 Author Posted March 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by W: I bet in winter there's lot of opportunities for freshie facial shots.Oh and Dru, I heard your Long Dong is more likely to result in a "Crack-n-Up"... Whatever is used there arent going to be many runouts cause placements will be numerous, deep and solid! Quote
W Posted March 14, 2002 Posted March 14, 2002 Still, I think it might be a good idea to wear a helmet. Quote
Dru Posted March 14, 2002 Author Posted March 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by W: Still, I think it might be a good idea to wear a helmet. Or some form of protection, although as it is (was?) a virgin summit, I kind of wonder who the protection is supposed to benefit? Quote
willstrickland Posted March 14, 2002 Posted March 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by W: Still, I think it might be a good idea to wear a helmet. As this is rumoured to be a "first ascent", one would assume a helmet is not necessary as long as you clean your pin in time...However, how do we know some guy wasn't up there back in '99 and left no trace? I recommend a hat at minimum, preferable by the JimmyHat company...a subsidiary of SplitHer gear. Quote
greenfork Posted March 14, 2002 Posted March 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: As this is rumoured to be a "first ascent", one would assume a helmet is not necessary as long as you clean your pin in time...However, how do we know some guy wasn't up there back in '99 and left no trace? I recommend a hat at minimum, preferable by the JimmyHat company...a subsidiary of SplitHer gear. wow... and to think Allison was complaining about lack of wit!!! Quote
W Posted March 14, 2002 Posted March 14, 2002 The helmet is mainly needed for the chimney route on the backside...there's rumoured to be lots of rockfall and mudslides. Quote
Dru Posted March 15, 2002 Author Posted March 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by W: The helmet is mainly needed for the chimney route on the backside...there's rumoured to be lots of rockfall and mudslides. no shit, what's that called, The Beckey Route? Quote
willstrickland Posted March 15, 2002 Posted March 15, 2002 Approach is around the back of Timber Lake, a rather queer traverse, but apparently attracts lots of pre-pubescents. Quote
greenfork Posted March 15, 2002 Posted March 15, 2002 Also Be sure to check out the hot springs near the base on the front side (just below where the rock turns from blueish to pinkish) ... a little tough to find in the brush (just follow the smell), but it sure feels good after a climb. Quote
Dru Posted March 15, 2002 Author Posted March 15, 2002 judging by the response to my posting anyone approaching will have to bushwack through a bunch of hardwoods to get to Spears. Quote
slothrop Posted March 15, 2002 Posted March 15, 2002 A pair of bulges are known to form to either side of the central offwidth if the weather is cold enough. Note that the bulges might require some tweaking in order to get a solid placement. Although it seems unlikely that there will be a female ascent of this route, many hardmen would enthusiastically cheer such an effort. [ 03-14-2002: Message edited by: slothrop ] Quote
Smoker Posted March 15, 2002 Posted March 15, 2002 I understand that the opening moves require a hard pin placement. Quote
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