New Nomic and Ergo failures...

[Nitrox]

The "fix" is glue the pommel in position, as we discussed above, which seesm to have worked at leasy short term on my Ergos.

 

Its a sloppy fix for tools that aren't yet damaged\failed. I think the pommel can be bedded to take out all play and still have full adjustment. It just takes a little clay and some patience.

 

[Dane]

I mis-spoke on the epoxy fix.

 

Petzl's fix is better. In the short term Petzl is adding a extra stainless pin through the shaft and pommel locking it in position.

 

Their long term fix is a complete redesign of the pommel attachment and replacing the earlier tools as required. Basically any tool within that serial number range will be replaced with a totally new tool once the new version is available in the fall of 2011. Not a perfect answer but damn close imo for what is involved.

 

In house fix in Utah will be a one day turn around starting Jan 1. Petzl is paying the shipping both ways.

 

And beyond the call duty I think....Petzl will offer the same fix to anyone at the Ouray Ice fest while you wait.

 

Petzl is pretty squared away on this and trying to get us sorted and climbing again the fastest way possible.

 

BTW some igit was saying it is only 121 tools

 

Wish it were so for Petzl's sake but it is not.

 

From Petzl press release, "This issue concerns NOMIC and ERGO ice tools with serial numbers between 10208 and 10329".

 

I have a set of new Ergo and a set of new Nomics.

 

The Ergo Serial number PREFIX is #10236 KM

The Nomics are similar. #10XXX but inside the warrenty numbers.

 

The second numbers are actual serial numbers @ #3XX3 and #3XX4

My Nomic skip one number between them. 3XX5 and 3XX7

Pretty obvious it is a few more than 121 tools that will need to be replaced.

 

[Justin-at-Petzl]

More information on this topic from Petzl:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/994297#Post994297

 

Thanks,

Justin Roth

Communications Manager

Petzl America

[Julian]

 

Holy shit! Who the hell would think that's a good idea?

[G-spotter]

Same guys that chain the handle to handle and sit on the lower pick for a no-hands rest in the Cineplex.

[trainwreck]

If you can't climb the routes at Cineplex then your opinion about how others do is moot.

[G-spotter]

Oh, you think the butt dildo rest is totally legit?

sickie

[genepires]

actually, everyone's opinion (regardless of skill level) is moot. climbing is a personal journey and others opinion don't amount to anything when you are getting after something, whatever your skill level or objective.

 

Like, just have fun and be safe. F$%^ the ethics police.