Advice on Mt. Shasta over the Thanksgiving week

[Reed]

So I'm taking Thanksgiving week off and I'm planning to drive from Seattle to SF to visit my college friends. I was thinking of fun outdoor activities I can do en route to SF, so I'm considering attempting Mt. Shasta. From what I hear the Avalanche gulch is fine to be climbed without a rope, right? Also, considering that this is an off season climb, should I be concerned about avalanches? Any other advice on climbing Shasta?

 

Thanks!

[DPS]

I hear the Avalanche gulch is fine to be climbed without a rope, right? Also, considering that this is an off season climb, should I be concerned about avalanches?

 

Avi Gulch has no glaciers on the route so roping up is not neccessary. If there is snow on the ground then you need to be concerned about avalanches. How concerned depends upon a lot of factors. Maybe check an avalanche forecast for Mt Shasta right before you go.

[AlpineK]

You need a $20 permit to climb above 10 grand.

 

Here is a link to info on conditions and roads

http://www.shastaavalanche.org/

 

The Sierra Club has a camp a few miles in before the big climb to Avalanche Gully

Horse Camp

 

[Reed]

Thanks for advice, guys. Much appreciated!

 

One more question. I'm looking at the summit weather forecast and it looks like it's going to be snowing starting tonight until at least Sunday night. Forecast for Mt Shasta, CA town says that it will keep snowing until Wednesday. The bottom line is, there's going to be quite a bit of new snow. Will that make the route avalanche prone if I'm planning to climb on Wednesday? In general, given that there will be a lot of new snow is it a good idea to climb on Wednesday?

Edited November 18, 2010 by Reed

[Water]

If you want someone to tell you it is safe and go climb it, you can probably get that, and if you want someone to say it isn't and don't climb then, you can find that too I bet.

 

Based on what you have read about snow falling for the next 6-7 days, and tons of it, and going up a route called called avalanche gulch, what do you think? do you get a gut feeling telling you this is probably a bad idea?

 

listen to that decision more than any words on here or mental thoughts bumming about how the weather screwed yer plans and maybe you can still eek out a climb if you ignore the gut feeling.

 

sorry if i sound a little rude--just from my armchair knowledge of the route (and admittedly never having been on shasta) it is screaming NO pretty loudly given the weather patterns and outlook you've just shared. but keep an eye on it and be ready, maybe the main snow stops falling on sunday morning and they only get 1 or 2 more inches on my of the mountain by wednesday--then maybe it is a bit of a different story.

 

good luck!

 

what is the access on mt mcloughlin in southern oregon? that might be a less committing peak (though avalanche factor could be identical).. or head to crater lake-open year around--and go for some awesome snow camping on the crater rim (not on cornice) just another option

[KirkW]

what is the access on mt mcloughlin in southern oregon? that might be a less committing peak (though avalanche factor could be identical).. or head to crater lake-open year around--and go for some awesome snow camping on the crater rim (not on cornice) just another option

 

If yer in southern Oregon and you want a long snow slog, Mt. Bailey is what you're looking for. Don't know how far up the road you'll get but it'll be a guaranteed adventure. Wouldn't think avy would be a concern at all on the s side trail, but I haven't been up there in full on winter conditions. I know huge slides are common on the east face but if you stick to the trail(ish) and then the ridge you wouldn't ever have to cross exposed terrain. Use your own judgment of course and be prepared for some solitude. One of the most kick ass views in the cascades IMHO. A whole bunch of new snow on that route will make it look much harder than it really is. Have fun.

 

I would avoid Shasta this weekend if the forecast you posted turns out to be accurate. Shasta is a damn big mountain and with that much fresh snow, there will be no easy way up to 14,162ft until someone puts the boot pack in. I'm not sure heading up a route with Avalanche in its name right after the first major storm of the season is a rational thing to do either. In the end it's you that has to make the call. Like water said...listen to your gut, you'll live longer in the mountains.

[RaisedByPikas]

I'm guessing that without really big snow shoes or skis its going to be an exercise in futility no matter what the avalanche conditions or weather say.